Forester no start


Asked by Aug 23, 2017 at 12:24 PM about the 2006 Subaru Forester 2.5 X

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

I have a crank but no start situation on my
2006 Subaru Forester non-turbo 2.5 manual
transmission. The motor has been rebuilt
from the bottom up the first time the motor
was put back again it started right back up
immediately but the piston ring was warped
where I try to put it in by hand instead of
using the tool so it's smoked. I took the
motor back out went and got the ring tool
reinstalled it put it right back in there and it
will crank but no start. It has a brand new
ECU the car does not have an immobilizer so
the only thing I had to do was have the VIN
written in which I did. It has brand new
variable timing solenoid on both heads
brand new engine temperature coolant
sensor brand new oil sending sensor brand
new ECU brand new plugs and wires brand
new ignition coil brand new oil pump water
pump all main bearings rod bearings piston
rings Pistons. My scanner and I do have a
nice one that I paid almost $500 for its a
Bosch says no codes everything checks out
fine everything is in the green according to
the scanner there's no problem. However if
you take the battery out and put it back in
sometimes it will pull up a map code. And if
you take the battery out and put it back in
again it will say there is no codes again. I'm
not understanding it's like something is up in
the wiring or something. The coil is brand
new out-of-the-box but yet it is not firing I
tested the ignition wire that goes into the
coil for hot ground and control. I did both
compression and leave down test everything
showed to be just fine. I'm at my Wit's End I
have put so much money into this car and
now it has a no start situation. I tried to start
it last night while I was working on it and it's
appear to be occasionally of sparked that
came from underneath the motor when you
first started to turn it over. I am wondering if
there is not a chassis ground messed up
somewhere or something and it's causing
the ECU to not get the all the power to both
sides of it or something. If anyone has any
ideas for the love of God please please help
me out thank you

7 Answers

since the compression is good, did you check if there is spark and if there is fuel/fuel pressure?


Any chance you messed up the timing when you did your work the second time?


Check cam-crank sensors AND ensure the ECM matches your old one exactly.


ok fellows appreciate the input. i found the culprit . as i said i had already put new cam and crank pos sensors in. timing is spot on. subs are easy to time. i ran down all the wires with a volt meter. i checked the connector to the coil, since the coil was not firing and is brand new also. had good hot going to coil and good ground however after i did the crank test looking for control signal i noticed the test light did not blink so no control signal at coil thus no fire. upon closer inspection i discovered that the crankshaft has a reluctor ring wich is a one piece sprocket behind crank pully. the timing belt goes over the sprocket. what i never noticed is the very back of that piece has a lil wheel with teeth on it that spins right beneaththe crank pos sensor and the distance fron sensor to teeth is what creates control signal. it had three teeth missing. i replaced it and reset the ecu, fired right up first crank.

1 of 1 people found this helpful.

Hmm. Nice find.


Strange; how did it lose the teeth?


good question. the answer is i have no clue. nothing appears to be bent or warped or even able to make contact with it. im gonna guess its just wear and tear. im kind of hard on it i guess. i stay off roading up in the mountains in some pretty tough shit and some deep mud holes. never got it stuck though. although ive never heard of one of these reluctor rings breaking teeth before either but as we now know it can happen.

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