1991 3000GTSL

yes...that is high...a four hour job at most = $240.00 plus parts....this is of course at a ($60 1993 rate) today probably would be $85/hour making it a $340 for labor and perhaps $120.00 for belt and tensioner kit~...five hundred bucks and it better be a good job~

BINGO----both in one kit at one price.....you're gonna like this~

If it's a good garage, and the mechanic doing the work is good and does the job correctly, that price seems fair because this is a tough job on that engine- a man who knows how to do things the right way will work in a shop that charges AT LEAST $100 an hour- does that seem unfair? bear in mind that the mechanic only gets half of that- the shop gets the other half- and compare a 50 dollar wage to some other not so skilled trades- like garbage collector- a good mechanic is not a crook- he is a skilled technician who has taken YEARS to learn his trade and spent tens of thousands on his tools- and it is hard, dirty work with many many occupational hazards to his health and safety- and if he is a good one, he will CARE about the car he is working on and as often as not spend much more time than the repair order states- isn't this GOOD mechanic the one you want working on your car? It will be fixed right the first time- (note that bad mechanics are pretenders, and also make the going rate)- but to make sure your baby's mechanic is a good one, ask to go back and meet him, and ask him questions about the job to be performed- a good wrench doesn't mind sharing information with the customer- he is proud of his work

...well put, jamn~~

Never have I seen one use a torque wrench, for these 13mm and smaller sizes...you get a 1/4 drive and you get a feel for them~...now puttin a head back will use a torque wrench...do not trust the 'click' ones....always feel like MORE pressure is needed, but the comparative needle with chart seems more sensible...you can SEE the torque happenin' rather than a lazy day "click"...think it's just me, but WE know when you're squashin' the hell out of a gasket...we don't need a special tool to tell us that....speakin' of quality of workmanship....the estimate please?~

don't forget the rest of the 60k mile maintenance, like the oil pump and new tensioner there's a few other parts but those are the most important, take it from someone that bought a sweet RT/TT stealth that spun a bearing shortly after due to a complete 60k minus the oil pump an $850 is a lil' high, but not bad, but if they are reputable and do quality work then go with them just make sure they don't dent your oil pan, wouldn't believe how many of these cars end up with spun bearings from the pan getting dented and that's from the dealerships doing It I might add.

where are you located at in cali ?

irishocity?

I forgot to add you should go with all OEM parts

My seat belt does the same. Haven't looked into why yet. As for the timing belt the price sounds about right. Make sure they use quality parts. You will be doing it again soon if they don't. Also change water pump, tensioner and oil pump. Please make sure they know what their doing because if belt and or tensioner not put on correctly you will have bent valves and be pulling the heads off of it next. Post a picture of your car.

go OEM there is NO substitute !!!

That is correct. Anything else and you will be doing it again soon.

Thats a good price as long as it comes with at a 1 year warrantee

Yes, I have problems with my selt belt retracking on my MITS.3000GT SL 1998. I have only 52,000 miles on the Mits. but because of age changed timing belts out, at dealer. They left something loose on alternator and it almost shorted out my electrical system. To this day it has weaker voltage 11.5 -11.00 on gauges,at night with everything on, never had that problem before, and it has a new battery. It never went below 12 befor. Just besure to test systems out afterwards, fully loaded.

bastards...what else did they screw up...must have been distracted by your blonde hair~.....really no shorting on the main alternator output is wrought with complications...apparently~ we must look and see what other electrical devices have been affected...apparently left with a parasitic drain now?

Check you battery connections. Make sure they are tight and clean. Also check negative battery connections to the frame and the motor. These cars are known for issues with the connections on the frame and motor. Check voltage with multi meter at battery before you crank it and also while it is running. If not showing around 14 + volts while it is idling then check voltage right at alternator. If showing a good 14+ volts there then it is a connection issue if not showing good volts there then its an alternator issue and needs to be replaced.

id get your alternator check to see if that is damaged

I did mine myself, parts were about 250 including waterpump, took me about 5-6 hours, and I am not a shop mechanic....so 850 seems a tad high to me...