No one can figure this out
Asked by SanMar Aug 13, 2015 at 09:49 AM about the 1994 Honda Accord Coupe EX
Question type: Maintenance & Repair
HI, ANY help would be appreciated!.
I was driving to work at about 60mph when my accord "jumped" it felt like I hit a huge speed bump. I pressed the accelerator and the care acted like it didn't want to go. I was able to drive about 2-3 miles to find a safer spot to pull off the highway. I pulled over and took my foot off the accelerator and the care just died (I thought timing belt) BUT, the car started and went into gear. I pressed the accelerator again and again it did the same thing, didn't want to go (kinda like it was hesitating). I had it towed home. We replaced..... Whole distributor, plugs, o2 sensor, EGR valve, and checked the CAT (didn't do wires because I have NGK wires). I have reset the computer after doing all of this and still it does not run properly. The car will idle beautifully but, if I press the accelerator and hold it at 4k rpms the car will do sort of a "hic-up" thing almost like a rev limiter and idle REALLY bad. I will then shut the car off and start it back up again, it will idle great as soon as I get past 1k rpms this time it will do the same type of "hic-up" thing. When this happens, the check engine light comes on. I have done the paper clip in the wire under the dash and the light does not blink at all. It just stays solid. We are at the end of our rope and just can't figure this out. This is a problem we have never seen before. If anyone can help, I would really appreciate it. Thank you in advance!!
16 Answers
Try the crank shaft sensor...
joemom, I will but, wouldn't this throw a code? I'm not getting any code. Just a solid steady check engine light only when the problem occurs. According to the Haynes manuel, the solid code means ECU but, after reading so many threads on this code, it could just be defaulting to the solid light. It is so rare for an ECU to burn up in a Honda. Thank you, though, We will check it!
joemom, The CPS is located inside the distributor. The entire distributor unit is brand-new, thus meaning the CPS is new also. Thank you though!
The only other thing I can think of is a bad ground going to the ECU, they work off a grounding system, if I'm not mistaken and you may want to check and be on the safe side, Good Luck
Tom; I have done this already and no code. Only solid engine light
joemom, Thanks but, we have checked that as well. We are on the same page, just nothing working out! Thank you
Sanmar, there's something on your car called a speed sensor, check and make sure that's OK. I had a 1995 Honda Accord EX and it went out causing the car not to shift properly. I don't remember at what rpms but, it definitely acted funny. Good luck.
Sanmar, one more thing, I had my car for 19 years, and one of the last things I had to replace was the main computer, it controls everything going on in your car. If you have to do that, try and find a rebuilt one or from a salvage yard, that's a very expensive part.
Hi Markw1952, Thanks we will check the speed sensor. I have already started looking for main computers, found a few on ebay for under $100 with a warranty. Not bad, just really didn't think it was the computer. All my other Honda's computers have never gone bad. May have to bite the bullet though. Thank you!
firebird338 answered 8 years ago
If all else fails do this test at night let vehicle idle for 5-10 minutes and check the manifold and catalytic converter to see if any one of them start to turn red if so it is clogged. Had it happen to my Honda Accord the manifold was turning red after idling for that 5-10 minutes.
Firebird338, we already checked the Catalytic converter. Will check the manifold tonight. Thanks
SanMar, good luck, I had almost 150,000 miles on my 95 Honda Accord EX station wagon, really nice car. Automatic transmission worked flawlessly in that car and engine just purred like a kitten unless you opened it up of course. That VTEC technology was ahead of its time back in 1995. I sold the car about 18 months ago for $3,000, it was in beautiful condition and ran great. It takes maintenance to keep an older car going, but, in the long haul, it's less expensive than recurring car payments and you don't lose on the depreciation.
in addition to jump connector,had to pull ECM fuse,then it will flash codes on D4 w./ Key on!
SanMar- did you ever figure out what was going on????
So I no longer have the car and after replacing almost every major component. We finally replaced the last thing It could have been..... The computer! Ordered a new one off of eBay and the ran better than it ever did before. So for anyone with similar problems, don't do what I did and waste money trying to figure it out..... it's the computer! Thanks for all the advise.
Bad alternator will also cause it to go into limp mode at 3-4000 rpms the alternator will still charge the battery but theres something that goes bad in them that causes it to backfeed the ecu code for mine was p1381
