Donda Civic 2002 - Power Window Problem

90

Asked by Guru1FB3W Sep 27, 2019 at 11:49 AM about the 2002 Honda Civic LX

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

Hello:

I need some guidance. I have a Honda civic 2001 that the front passenger
side power window stopped working. The window was actually almost fully
open when it stopped working and I couldn't get back up. When I switch the
power window control on the left door the window does not move at all and
there is no clicking noise as to anything trying to happen. All other windows
work fine. I had read online that it could a number of things: the fuse, the
motor/regulator, etc. So I started by checking the fuses (cheapest and
easiest thing to do).

I took out fuse #22 from the internal box and I noticed that it was in fact
blown. To test this, I took the fuse from the front driver side window (#23) and
put it on the driver side window. When I turned the car on to test it, and
turned on the window switch it was a bit hard for it to move at first but I was
able to fully close the window and then it stopped working. I turned the car
off and took the fuse off and noticed that now that fuse was blown. I went to
the autoshop store and picked up a few fuses for a couple of bucks and
replaced the one that I had taken from the front driver side (which now works
again) and replaced the second one that had blown from #22 (front pasenger
side). I turned the car on and the driver side window works as it did before
but the front passenger side did not even move this time. Turned the car off
took #22 out again and noticed that it was once again blown.

I did some reading online and realized that some people had had this
problem and that for them the fuse got blown as soon as they turned the car
on, they didnt event have to hit the window switch. So I took out my
multimeter and tested for continuity on that breaker. Sure enough when I turn
the car on I get a very small, numbers running through the multimeter, mostly
I get shown a negative sign. When I did the same on the other working
window breakers I get nothing when I turn the car on. So it seems that there
may be a short somewhere. So I am stuck as to how to proceed. I figured
that maybe there was a wire touching somewhere and I would be able to see
that so I took that front passenger side door apart so that I could access the
motor/regulator but I can not visually see anything wrong. I have
disconnected some of those plugs on the door itself that go to the window
switch on the door and continued testing the breaker for continuity but I still
get those small/negative signs on the multimeter.

Can someone provide me with some additional troubleshooting? what is the
next logical thing to test and how do I do that? Should I test the window
motor or regulator? and if so, how do I do that? What is the most likely culprit
in these types of situations? could the actual breaker box be the problem?
isn't that unlikely since I would be seeing that problem in other fuses? Do
you think one of the wires in the actual door is touching metal? but how
would that just start happening now?
I should mention that I have no experience on this at all, it has been alot of
youtubing up to get to this point. So please bear with my ignorance when
responding. Any help at all would be appreciated!

3 Answers

90

Just to follow up. I initially disconnected the power window control on the door itself. The power locks and mirrors on that door still worked just fine. Connecting the window fuse for that door still caused it to blow as soon as the car was turned on. To troubleshoot further, I unplugged the cable connections on the door itself to the mirror, locks and the windows. So in essence there was nothing connected from the internal fuse box to the door. I then put in another fuse in the fuse box and turned the car on. The fuse stil blew. To take it one step further, there is a plug just under the glove compartment that disconnects the entire wire bundle before it enters the door. I disconnected that plug, replaced the fuse, turned the car on and yet the fuse still blew out right away. Am I mistaken to think that the problem then resides between the connections under the glove compartment to the internal fuse box since I have essentially taken the entire door out of the equation? how can I troubleshoot this further? and why would it become a problem now? Again, all other windows work fine. Could it be that the problem resides in fuse box? I was thinking, since the driver side also controls the front passenger side window, could that be a problem as well? is that likely if all the other windows are NOT having problems?

90

Problem was with the driver side window master control. Replaced it and now it works just fine.

9 people found this helpful.

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