2009 Accord LX 2.4 4 cyl Crank - No Start

10

Asked by Davidt1331 Nov 29, 2018 at 10:57 PM about the 2009 Honda Accord LX

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

I've already tried a lot. Replaced quite a few parts. Here's where I am at. I
have fuel pressure. I have spark at the coil. It sounds like I have good
compression. I have no spark at the plug(fuel on firing area of all 4 plugs). I
have no misfires, backfires, or a check engine light. I have communication
with the computer(the check engine light comes on when I turn the key to on
and then goes off). I show rpms when cranking. My green key light is not
flashing. My car shows that I am in park. After three days of cranking when I
had hoped I had fixed it, the battery finally started to give up and I had to
jump it to crank again, this also did not help, but it did rule out a weak
battery. The car did not die on me while driving, I drove it home turned it off,
got up the next day and had the crank no start. The car has 210k miles on it
and the vtc actuator had been rattling for about 10k miles on only the first
start up of the day. A stretched chain would have caused noticeable issues
prior to this condition that the car is currently in. A broken chain would have
killed it on the spot. Crank sensor would have turned off the car mid drive
and kicked the check engine light on. Cam position sensors would have
kicked a check engine light on. The fuel pump relay would have possibly
kicked the check engine light on, however, i replaced the fuel pump because
i feared a weak pump right away as I could barely hear the old one. Put the
new pump in and disconnected the line at the rail and shot fuel out of the
engine compartment when turning the key to on with the new pump.
Changed the sensors, crank, cam A and cam B. No change, I'm still sitting
here with a crank-no start. Tried the spare key to no avail. Checked every
fuse, all of them, because......well, I was bored because I didn't know what to
do. Tried some more things, grounded the negative battery terminal to the
block, no change. Cleaned up the ground wire on the negative terminal of
the battery eventhough it had no noticeable defects. Checked the hot on the
plugs of the coils with the key turned to on, had good volts. I'm lost here. The
only thing I'm left with is possibly I'm out of timing through a stretched chain
that is somehow not causing a misfire or throwing a code. Or maybe I have
an ignition switch issue or an ignition coil issue, anyone have ideas on how
to test that?

5 Answers

22,300

Wow you are ahead of many on here that post questions. Good job on what you have done so far. Yes I was thinking stretched chain. Have you done voltage drop tests across the negative and positive side of the system? Maybe temperature fluctuations causing no starts. Ground straps?

2 people found this helpful.
22,300

One thing you said. You think you have good compression. You need to make sure because you have fuel and SOME spark. Compression issues can kill this spark issue you are having. And the chain possibly being stretched can affect combustion timing (compression).

1 people found this helpful.
10

I think I'm on the right track now. I'm after grounds I believe, or a specific ground, probably the engine to chassis. Originally, I checked for power at the coil on plug connectors and that was all I did, I didn't check for a drop. Last night, I had the battery jumped because I've probably killed it by now. Had the key to on. Had 13.5 from post to post. Hot on the coils on plug were testing at 11.2 to 11.4. That is an outrageous drop. So I spent the rest of the night trying to find the engine to chassis strap and couldn't find it. Battery to chassis cable tested fine but I'm going to replace it anyway, it doesn't look the healthiest, it's not caked green with corrosion or bulging anywhere, just looks old. But then, the last thing I did was check negative battery post to engine block and got no continuity, none. So i'm going to redouble my efforts towards this grounding issue and report back this evening. Hopefully I get some time to research this strap location at work. Thanks for the help so far!!!! As for the timing chain and vtc actuator, I know that the failing vtc actuator will eventually stretch the chain to a point where it jumps a tooth or a few(hopefully not break, I dont want a car payment cause of a junked motor) and should be addressed sooner rather than later, but wouldn't that still fire? At wrong times? I have what I would consider a healthy crank still. Is it actually possible that the chain has a wrong positioning where everything perfectly aligns that I will not even get a misfire? It seems farfetched to me, however, I would barely consider myself a novice in the auto repair world.

1 people found this helpful.
22,300

Strut towers, firewall and transmission to frame. Honda likes these grounding spots. I have also seen right behind the headlights.

20

3 options here choose one .....find a good mechanic or get rid of that car or start fresh with a new or good used low mileage car.....

2 people found this helpful.

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