Truck wont start an continue running

Asked by Feb 02, 2017 at 05:31 PM about the 1996 Ford F-150 XL 4WD Extended Cab LB

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

I have a 1996 f-150 5.8 v8 351 Windsor  changed
everything from starter, alternator, battery,  battery
terminals, throttle body sensor, an pickup coil.
Once I changed pickup coil it ran about five times
was working great then died again. Put fuel down
throttle body an it stalled about six blocks, after I
got it back home. I changed fuel filter an fuel
regulator. Once I i did that truck started right up
again . I turned it off left it for five minutes, Then
went back out to start it, it died shortly after I
poured fuel down the throttle body again to prime
it an it wouldn't even start back up does anyone
know what might be wrong I must be missing
something I hear my pumps priming when I turn on
the acc because I have two tanks. The fuel rail has
pressure I just don't know what it is. Does anyone
know what else it could be ?

14 Answers


May want to check that fuel pressure, it should be 30 to 45 lbs.

So could that mean my distributor

What kinda gauge do I use to check the pressure? are they pricey? an do I just hook it to my fuel rail


We are not into just replacing parts. You have to start somewhere when diagnosing a problem. Besides the ICM and the coil can be tested. This persons has described a problem, fixed it for a while and indicating it is with fuel. Could be, maybe not, but you have to start somewhere. So with all that said, you can rent a fuel pressure gauge from your local parts stores.


All he has to do is check to see if there is spark and what it looks like. It should be white/blueish in color, not orange in color.


One other thing that happens is the distributor gear pin shears so the gear moves on the shaft throwing the timing off. All you have to do to check that is to take the distributor cap off and grab hold of the rotor and see if you can turn it.

Do you have to lift up on the rotor first or should you be able to turn it no matter what because it rotated after I picked it up out of the hole


Oh boy, you took the distributor out. Now everything needs to be lined back up in order to drop it back in, unless you marked it. You were suppose to just try and see if you could turn the rotor. Its hard to tell if the pin is sheered with the distributor out.

No no no I haven't taken it out yet I just pulled up on the plastic rotor piece an it turned but only when I pulled up on the rotor piece. Is that bad should it turn just by grabbing it an trying to turn it clockwise. After I rotated the rotor one revolution I put it back where I found it

I couldn't turn it until I pulled up on the rotor then pushed it back in the hole is it supposed to do that

So it's not the fuel pressure what else could it be my only guess is the distributor


Good morning, had one of those things where my computer crashed. Back on line again, so lets getter done. Ok, What I was looking for is if you could turn the distributor SHAFT by grabbing a hold of the rotor and seeing if it turns. The shaft should not turn. The rotor should be seated all the way down in place so it locks into the distributor shaft when doing this. So no you do not pull up on the rotor when checking this. Also before getting too far ahead of things, check this since you are there, then check the spark to see if there is one, it should be white/blueish, not orange, see what we got there, if need be check the fuel pressure to determine if the fuel pump is bad or not.


Say TrannyMan, would you keep up with this? Today I have to go out into the wilderness, camp where there is no signals, no nothing, for the weekend. Do some snowmobiling. I'd be gone until Sunday, But plan on watching the Super Bole at 6:00PM.


Thank you, I'm sure you can help him out, just be careful with your wording, you talk differently than

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