88 s10 new pump and injector. No fuel

Asked by Mar 06, 2018 at 08:45 PM about the 1988 Chevrolet S-10

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

I have a 1988 chevy s10 2.2 4 cyl. I've replaced the
fuel pump, throttle body injector, and coil. So it
started with it dying on me. No fuel. Started with
pump. Didn't work. Pulled supply at throttle body,
plenty of fuel and pressure. Changed coil and a
relay in distributor (was told fuel was time off
distributor) still nothing. So I bought a throttle body
injector. The cheap one which was refurbished or
whatever they call it. Fired right up. Ran for four
days then same issue. So I bought a new one.
Installed and nothing. Now I'm not getting fuel to
the intake. I was supposed to sell it today and now I
have no idea what it is. Couldn't find a fuse under
dash for fuel pump. I know the relay is on front
driver side fender. I haven't replaced it but wires
seem in tact and not frayed or weathered. Idk wtf to
do guys and I desperately need this fixed to sell for
the cash. Please help

9 Answers


Your problems seems intermittent, the fact you changed the TB has/had little effect. You need to have a scan, to what trouble codes exist...if any. And yes, all of these type problems are/can be tough for the pro's, so if you aren't familiar with the system, its nearly impossible to guess.

1 people found this helpful.

and you'll be telling the buyer all these troubles you've had right ? Or are you going to just unload it ?

@beatupchevy well I'm not "that guy". I wouldn't do that. Not to mention it's a friend. But he knew that I needed to replace the injector, or so I thought since it fixed the problem previously, which is not the case now. I would really like to know the issue for sure so I can at least inform him properly or fix it.


check for loose/broken vacuum lines , pin holes in rotted fuel lines

@beatupchevy I know I have a few small vacuum leaks. But why would that cause the fuel pump to be inop.? My next step is to change the relay on the inner fender. Also idk if this helps but it runs when I pour gas in the intake but only until it's burnt up. So I'm just having a fuel supply issue. I know we can buy bad parts sometimes, but what's the odds I bought a bad fuel pump AND TB injector? That's what has me confused. The injector immediately fixed the problem before. Now it seems like it's the pump this time. So confused. (Also I'm not sure I'm replying to answers the right way but hisnis the only way I know how)


is the fuel pump in the tank ? make sure it has a good ground , . if it's on the motor and you have a hole in the line where it goes over the rear axle it won't leak it'll just suck more air , the injector should be spitting fuel when cranking

@beatupchevy it's in the tank. I checked the ground last night but I'll try taking it off and cleaning the frame where it's mounted. I'm pretty sure it's not even turning on during first initial purge. But I was by myself and wasn't able to get close enough to know for sure and still hit the key. Also before, when the new(used) tb injector fixed the issue, it was getting fuel up to the injector. I cracked the inlet line and had plenty of fuel. But nothing ever came out of the injector. Which is why I pretty well narrowed it down to that injector and it worked...for 4 days. No I have 0 fuel coming out of the fuel inlet. Could I be shortin out somewhere?


you''ll need a multi tester to trace it

1 people found this helpful.

I have had this same problem on my 1988 2.5 s-10 .Fuel pump is good. Fuel filter is new. Checked fuel pressure with gauge and was perfect. Fuel would go to throttle body but would not come out of the injector.Installed a new injector and still no start. Attached a noid light to the plug in at the top of the injector and it would come on bright then go out. Was told could be the ignition control module. I took the dist. cap off to replace it and felt around the back of the distributor where all the wires go into the plug in for the ignition module and saw a broken wire that was under the other wires.I attached it to the location where it looked like it came from. I put the cap back on and did not replace the module. I turned the key on it fired right up and has never run better. I can only assume this wire had been grounding everything out on a random basis .Like someone said "If it takes longer than 5 minutes it's something simple" which was certainly true in my case. My suggestion is to feel around the back of the dist. for loose or broken wires. I hope this saves somebody some time.

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