truck possessed ( joking, truck just acting weird)

From the sound of it, its definitely electrical in nature. BUT You have to narrow your question down and be more specific-there are too many possibilities to begin to answer it. When you say "hard to start" do you mean the engine WON'T CRANK OVER AT ALL, or that it CRANKS OVER SLOWLY, or that EVEN WHEN ITS CRANKING OVER OK, THE IGNITION WILL NOT START THE ENGINE? BUT, you mentioned having to "stomp the clutch", to get it to start. That points to either poor electrical contact through or MIS-POSITIONING of the neutral safety switch itself. A good switch mispositioned, or one making weak electrical contact might be all that you have going on. One issue that comes up with electrical switches is that the feeling for many is "it either works or doesn't, so plug it in and see if it works-if it does we're done". Its not anyone's fault that there can be considerable accumulated wear with the resulting extra slop, both inside the trans as well as to the external shift linkages, bushings, pivot points, etc. Or that a switch will fail eventually. BUT, given the above, a neutral safety switch will often need to be ADJUSTED CAREFULLY to account for all that extra slop. This is especially true for high mileage, or older vehicles, or those often driven on rougher (or no) roads. Also, sometimes the switch mounting point/bracket (if it has one) can be bent, or the connector or its wiring damaged, oxidized, cut partially through and making sporatic contact, clogged with crud, etc., any of which can prevent there being good, reliable electrical contact. The goal is usually to position the switch so that the plunger is not immediately allowing contact as soon as you touch the clutch, but not until the pedal is close to the end of its downward travel--to be SURE that the vehicle won't move when you start t crank the engine. The plunger of the switch is usually set somewhere near the center in its available range of travel from allowing electrical contact to preventing that contact- when the clutch pedal is FULLY depressed. That allows for a long period of not needing adjustment due to additional wear and also for dimensional change from temperature extremes. For any electrical connectors on a vehicle, to prevent future electrical contact problems, its good practice to clean OLD connectors, wire brush or abrasive cloth on contacts surfaces if possible, or at least burnish the contacts (by opening and closing the connector several times) and then coat the contact areas with a dielectrical compound before final assembly. It prevents both oxidation and contamination from things such as road dirt and salt.

From the sound of it, its definitely electrical in nature. BUT You have to narrow your question down and be more specific-there are too many possibilities to begin to answer it. When you say "hard to start" do you mean the engine WON'T CRANK OVER AT ALL, or that it CRANKS OVER SLOWLY, or that EVEN WHEN ITS CRANKING OVER OK, THE IGNITION WILL NOT START THE ENGINE? BUT, you mentioned having to "stomp the clutch", to get it to start. That points to either poor electrical contact through or MIS-POSITIONING of the neutral safety switch itself. A good switch mispositioned, or one making weak electrical contact might be all that you have going on. One issue that comes up with electrical switches is that the feeling for many is "it either works or doesn't, so plug it in and see if it works-if it does we're done". Its not anyone's fault that there can be considerable accumulated wear with the resulting extra slop, both inside the trans as well as to the external shift linkages, bushings, pivot points, etc. Or that a switch will fail eventually. BUT, given the above, a neutral safety switch will often need to be ADJUSTED CAREFULLY to account for all that extra slop. This is especially true for high mileage, or older vehicles, or those often driven on rougher (or no) roads. Also, sometimes the switch mounting point/bracket (if it has one) can be bent, or the connector or its wiring damaged, oxidized, cut partially through and making sporatic contact, clogged with crud, etc., any of which can prevent there being good, reliable electrical contact. The goal is usually to position the switch so that the plunger is not immediately allowing contact as soon as you touch the clutch, but not until the pedal is close to the end of its downward travel--to be SURE that the vehicle won't move when you start t crank the engine. The plunger of the switch is usually set somewhere near the center in its available range of travel from allowing electrical contact to preventing that contact- when the clutch pedal is FULLY depressed. That allows for a long period of not needing adjustment due to additional wear and also for dimensional change from temperature extremes. For any electrical connectors on a vehicle, to prevent future electrical contact problems, its good practice to clean OLD connectors, wire brush or abrasive cloth on contacts surfaces if possible, or at least burnish the contacts (by opening and closing the connector several times) and then coat the contact areas with a dielectrical compound before final assembly. It prevents both oxidation and contamination from things such as road dirt and salt.