1992 oldmoblie 88 royale


Asked by May 24, 2017 at 11:30 AM about the 1992 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight Royale 4 Dr LS Sedan

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

I got up too go to work today . my car started and
then it cut right off and dont want to start up again
.. What can be the problem with it can anyone help

13 Answers


Check to make sure you have a good ground. It's a long shot but you never know. Good Luck

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Check the "Basics," Does it crank, if not "Put the Shifter in Neutral" and try to start. If that works it means your "Neutral Safety Switch" needs adjustment, or replacement. Next easiest is it cranks, but doesn't start, so "Pull off 1 spark plug wire" then put a screwdriver in the connector, and have a friend crank your engine to check for spark; Lastly pull an injector, and crank for a short period to see if it sprays. Three thing all engines need is Gas, Spark, and Compression.

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Just it cranks just dont want to start up thats it but i am going to try some of the stuff you told me to try thanks


The engine turns over when i try to start it thats all

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Ok i done took a spark plug out and no spark at all ... So what have to be done now


Does your car have a :short{ cable to the distributor: If so take a plug, hold it near the block, and see if the coil is firing.The Distributor (like it sounds distributes spark), but the coil produces the current. The Spark should be look "Blue" in color, but if its "orange" "You've got a weak coil" and that should be replaced.


Idk how to tell if it have a short in it ... I change spark plugs and wires and coil pack still not starting though .. Can you tell me why not


I change everything brand new and still want start


Well i never try the injectors yet dont know how to do that


First is the engine a 3300, or 3800? Check the injectors (with the engine off using an OHM Meter. 14 to 17 Ohms is normal, 9 and under isn't (the injector is bad. Either engine's fuel ring is held on with 4 13mm nuts, and on the L/F your Fuel Presure Regulator, and the L/R (of the rail the fuel line into the injector ring). Note the 3300 Batch Injects meaning the front three spray, then the back 3 spray. The 3800 sprays "sequentially." Meaning each injector sprays during the intake stroke."HP Fuel Injectors (Florida) sells a set for about $110.00. Remember to check resistance of each of the injectors, and remember under 8 OHMS, replace it!


If the car cranks, but "That's All," then check if you've got power to the coil packs you said were replaced. (use a voltmeter). Next pull off one plug cable (at the plug), then either use a clean old plug, or the blade of a screwdriver, and place it near the engine to see "Is it generating spark?" If NO Spark; the "crankshaft position sensor is two hall effect sensors in one." In other words, the assembly is two crank sensors in one. I'll also show you how to test it. One CKP Sensor is called the 3X CKP Sensor and the signal it creates is called the Sync 3X CKP Signal and the other one is called the 18X CKP and its signal the Crank 18X CKP Signal. As stated before, both of these signals are critical for the ignition control module to start the car (to start sparking the ignition coils). Although an oscilloscope is the best way to check for the pulses from the crankshaft position sensor (3X CKP and 18X CKP) to the ignition control module, there's another way that I've used successfully for a number of years. This is using an LED Light. This LED Light you can buy from any electronics store ( I buy mine from my local Radio Shack store). You have access to an oscilloscope, I have included photos of what the waveforms should look like. Whether you use the LED Light, or a multimeter, or an oscilloscope, you'll be able to successfully diagnose this NO START CONDITION! So, read on my friend.The first order of business is to make sure the ICM is getting power and ground. Then, you'll make sure that the crank sensor is also getting juice. The next step is to test the crank sensor signals. Remember, there are two signals involved (in starting the Engine) and that are produced by the same crank sensor. From the results you get you'll be able to pinpoint the problem to the ignition control module or... The crank sensor. The sensor is to the left of the "Crank Pulley" check if it's pulsing, or dirty, or broke. It's not hard to R&R a new one, and that's the sensor that triggers the "Coil Packs through the ECU.


Ok thanks i will try some of them rhings later it might be the senor i hope so because i don't have the money for anything else but thanks alot i will keep you updated


I have the 3800 series

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