Is it necessary to flush our ac system on our 1993 Saturn SL2 if the line that cracked was replaced? Would all the refrigerant be out?
You don't flush an AC system, you use a vacuum pump to evacuate all the air. Go to an auto shop that does AC work, I do as I don't have the equipment to do it right.
I believe that your '93 model, if still original will have R12 refrigerant in the system. 1993 was the last year GM was using R12 in it's new cars. From an economic standpoint you'll want to have it converted to R134a. Automobile air conditioning systems must be evacuated and the refrigerant recovered by the proper recovery and recycling machine that only a repair facility will have. Normally once the system is repaired it is evacuated then partially recharged with refrigerant, then run for a short time. This is called "sweeping" the system. Once the system is "swept" it is fully recharged and you're all set. HTH. -Jim
Would all of the old refrigerant come out automatically into the air when we replaced the one hose? Thanks Mimi
The shop will vacuum out any /if any is left in the system, If it broke/leaked before the repair, yes it went into the air. I know at least until 1992 it was still R12. I had a 1992 changed over to R34 and it cools or better said freezes you out I had waited thinking it would not be as good, even bought one of the last drops of R12, I had all new parts installed when changed over, by then it needed it.
Yes, replacing a hose would let the refrigerant escape. Since the system was open you may have to replace the accumulator as well. It may be saturated with moisture. You'll still need to have the system pulled down into a vacuum, "swept", then recharged for maximum efficiency. HTH. -Jim
Thanks Jim, can we do this ourselves? We are very capable and don't want to spend a lot of money on this car. Can we buy the evacuator ourselves? Mimi
You're welcome. Glad to help. You can buy a vacuum pump pretty reasonably. A "cheepo-beepo" one can be had for under $100. It hooks up to an air compressor. You'll pull down the system to 21 inches of vacuum (at sea level). It should hold the vacuum for a minimum of 15 minutes. Then you can recharge it (with R134a) through the low side service port ONLY. Never hook up to the high side of the system!! If you still have an unconverted R12 system you'll have to get it either converted to R134a or let a pro recharge it. If you stay with the R12 it will be very expensive! Possibly even cost prohibitive! HTH. -Jim
Hi Jim, There are 2 different evac systems at harbor freight, one can pull down to 75 microns, the other to 22.5 microns. Is a micron equivalent to? you mentions inches. We need you! Mimi
Well, according to a conversion chart I found online (not sure if I did it right) 21 inches is equivalent to 533400 microns. HTH. -Jim
So if 1 inch equals that many microns, then it sounds like nothing you can buy will work for a do it your selfer, unless we maybe get a micron gauge? Maybe that is a useful way to tell if we are vacuuming at the correct inches? What do you think? thanks for your efforts! Mimi
An air conditioning manifold gauge set will show inches of vacuum on the low side gauge. HTH. -Jim
Thanks a lot for your help, Jim we really do appreciate it. I'm hoping I don't have to bother you any more about this, but you never know! Again, many thanks Mimi
You're welcome. Glad to help. Not a bother at all! Thank you for the best answer click! -Jim
Hi Jim, was wondering if you could tell me if you can replace the little feed valve ( looks like a tire gauge, where you hook up the Freon). When we take off the cap to put the feed tube on to fill it leaks alittle until you tighten it on. What do you think?
Yes you can. It's called a Schrader valve. You can replace the core of the valve (the part that's like a pin that you can press down). HTH. -Jim
My husband just said before I looked to see if you got back to me " it's the schrader valve"! So what I think is happening is, we put too much in and the pressure was too high and it cause a leak. We learn something every day huh? Thank you Mimi
Hi Jim, We fixed the ac problem. Now we have a code 26 problem. Would it by chance be related to the ac we fixed? Also where are the solonoids located? thx Mimi
That's a quad driver module circuit problem. I'll have to research that one. HTH. -Jim
Thank you, Jim I tried but there is so much verbage that I just don't understand it all. Mimi
You're welcome. Glad to help. Double check your work on the air conditioning system. Inspect the wiring for the components. The air conditioning, believe it or not, is computer controlled. When you switch on the air conditioning this sends an "a/c request signal" to the ECM. The ECM then starts the compressor. So there could definitely be a connection there. HTH. -Jim
Thanks Jim I'll have my Jim check it out tomorrow, Will let you know, but I got to say the air is working really good, 40 degrees! Did notice that he had to goose the accelerator to get it to register or something like that. A mere idle wasn't doing it Mimi
Ok, sounds good!! Keep me posted!! -Jim
Hi Jim, They only rank you as 6th, but they don't know you! Got a question for you. Would a malfunctioning PVC valve cause the code 26? thx Mimi
Thank you! I doubt that the PCV valve would trigger a trouble code. Unless it was causing a vacuum leak then it would create a lean condition. The PCV valve isn't computer controlled on older models. HTH. -Jim
Well it turns out that the tubes that connect the valve were plastic and deteriorated so Jim replaced them with copper tubing, and he found out that the valve was not in place and oil was spraying out from one end or the other. The insulation on the underside of the hood was saturated with oil! We wondered why we were replacing oil every now and then but never any puddles or smoke anywhere. So he fixed all of it and we have not gotten any more readings! The valve was brand new!! So that's why we wondered if any of it was related to the code 26 default or problem, crazy huh?
Oh WOW!! That's really something!! A new one on me!! That's awesome, glad you found it!! Thanks for letting us know as well!! - Jim
Hi Jim, got a question for you. Remember I asked you what and where is the quad driver modular? Well we got the reading of 26 and though the ac is working great, no problems with the pcv valve, that's fine. But that quad driver modular is a real question mark. What are your thoughts on that little bugger? thx Mimi
From what I've read a quad driver is an integrated circuit inside the ECM that controls four things. HTH. -Jim
Thanks Jim appreciate it. You've been very helpful. Here's a question for you. When we open up the driver door, the chime goes on and does not go off until you close it. Once in a blue moon it doesn't do it, but most all of the time it does, do you think that would have any relationship to the code 26? Because the key cylinder was changed out about 2 years ago and wonder if they miss wired it. Strange little car! Mimi
Possibly. There's a little switch inside the lock cylinder that activates the chime/buzzer to remind you the key is in the ignition. Sounds like it's stuck. You might try a little WD-40 in the key hole. Just a few drops. That may unstick it. HTH. -Jim
We will try that, thx You know the car runs great! Really no issues at all, although, the odometer is not working and hasn't for a long time, do you thank that would have anything to do with the code 26 issue? As always you've been so gracious. Mimi
You're welcome. Always glad to help. It could. Even the older rolling numbers type of odometers, by the early '90s, were computer controlled. HTH. -Jim
Well we went out and put wd-40 in the ignition switch and after putting the key in and out the chime stopped, so we reset the fuse box and the code 26 did not come back, YET! But we still can't find out about the odometer, Even the Hanes book tells you nothing about the odometer, funny huh? Well we'll try to figure that out and let you know how we made out. Thanks again for all your knowledge, you're a good man. Mimi and JIm
You're welcome and thanks for the kind words! Very glad to hear the key warning is now working!! I love WD-40, haha! Unfortunately there's not a lot of information out there about odometer repair because some people might misuse it to roll back mileage. I know on the newer rolling numbers type there's little motors in there that keep the numbers rolling along as you drive. Years ago I had a '66 Cadillac that the speedometer became noisy on. I replaced it and was able to transfer the odometer number unit to the replacement speedometer so that the mileage would continue to be correct. There are stickers you can buy that go on the driver's door jam to indicate that the odometer was replaced, the mileage on the old odometer, and the mileage on the new/replacement odometer. My Sister bought a '76 Ford Maverick in the spring of 1976. One of the (many) warranty repairs she had done was have the speedometer replaced at around 300 miles. The dealer put the sticker on and when she sold the car to a buddy of mine in 1988 she made sure to point that out to him. I had forgotten about it, haha. HTH. - Jim
We have some old cars and haven't had that problem, but this little bugger was my mother in laws car and the only thing left is the odometer and if the code 26 comes back than we'll just look into maybe the solenoids or something. Let you know , AGAIN, Mimi
Hi Jim , littlegreencar here. Got a question for you. Can we use our air compressor to find another leak in our AC system in our car? thx Mimi
The best way to find a leak is to partially charge the system and put in a dye that can be viewed with an ultraviolet light. HTH. - Jim
Hi JIm, we used the Freon with dye, and that was expensive compared to regular Freon, but we thought we found it and did, but something went about 3 to 4 days later, so we'll try again, thanks so much! Mimi
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