Air flow valves, which one can be disconnected after engine has warmed.
2004 Town car with cont. air flow problem, starts right up, idles good, does not stall in gear, gets to 100 mph before engine warms. Once warmed it hesitates badly, passing gear needed for acceleration. Would like to disconnect valve used to warm engine and run on the valve used to flow air when warmed. All the normal fixes would cause problems that I'm not experiencing, such as rough idle, stalling etc. PS 100 MPH was only to test with cool engine. Thanks
My service write up says that it should be at 1.7 lbs and it read 2.56lbs. I'm not sure if that's significant enough to do damage so I'm asking you all. Here's exact wording of the service write up. Not sure why they did all caps on the Cause & Correction portion of the write up. Concern: Op-code 2301 Recharge A/C system with R134A Freon. Add dye to system - black light test inspecting the A/C system for leaks. $199.92 (price includes labor, ac dye and up to 2 lbs of R134A Freon). Cause: FREON LEVEL AT 2.56 LBS, SHOULD BE AT 1.7 Correction: ADDED DYE AND ADJUSTED FREON LEVEL, NO LEAKS FOUND AND WORKING AS DESIGNED. So now that I have the car back it seemed to be working ok. Still not sure. I know that on hotter days it will take longer to cool the car down. I think that with my hand up on the A/C vent my hand should be an icicle. This is the case in the Ford Transit, so in my thinking it should also be in the highlander. The hotter it is outside the air coming from the vent is cool not freezing. But 5* - 8* cooler temperature outside and the vent is freezing. Settings all being the same is this normal? Again A/C seems to be temperamental depending on the outdoor temperature. I've been taken in the past when I bought a used car and am not going to be this time. I'll get written guarantee for 18-24 months that if there are issues no out of pocket expense on my part. Thank you in advance for taking time to answer, especially in my lengthy post. I wanted to be sure and give a clear picture.
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