Electrical Problem new battery keeps needing jump start
Hi all, I have given plenty of help here & elsewhere but occassionally need
it myself especially with this vehicle. 2000 (this only let me put 2001 in the
year) Hyundai SantaFe, V6 AWD. Veh not here so guestimate on mileage
is around 180,000.
Daughters veh. Had been having a problem w her battery not being strong
enough to start car w/o a jump, so put load test on battery(18 month old),
battery was shot. Took it back got a new one w longer life span. Seemed fin
until today. Had to use jump start this am to get to work, left work started
fine on its own, Got home had to go back to wrk 3 hrs later, needed jump.
Got to work, when leaving needed jump again. Used jump, 1/2 way home
made a quick stop, left it running/locked. Came out, it had stopped running,
couldn't start on own, killed jumper trying. Got jump start from passing veh,
it started, got home. So far I know, its brand new battery(3 months), all
fuses and relays had checked out ok when battery changed. She does not
leave any accessories on when shutting off/starting car, so NO KNOWN
draw on battery when unattended. I can and do fix most anything, but
electrical trouble shooting was more of a sideline for me, so have forgotten
most of what I knew. I am leaning toward Alt/Voltage regulator, and suspect
starter solenoid as another possibility as maybe worn & needing more
voltge? Any easy way of checking or a quick check for ALT as opposed to
just pulling it out to be tested at parts store? Anyone who works on this yr
knows what a pain the alt removal and replacement is on this veh w/o a lift,
the starter is much easier! Old school all we did was disconnect the battery
& if it died we knew it was batt not alt problem.
I am thinking since she just told me that the factory radio system turns on
or off or switched from radio to CD by itself intermittently or sometimes
when hitting a bump, that that could possibly be the culpret draining the
batt.. Was thinking pull the radio fuses and try the car w/o it and see if the
problem stays or goes away. Mainly looking for instructions on what to
check and in what order, simplest to hardest first if possible.
If anyone with elec trouble shooting experience can give any tips or point
out other places to look or check for my problem it would be greatly
appreciated. Getting to old for this stuff & just got out of hosp so not looking
forward to hours on the floor under this thing. Thanks.
JP, these issues can be a bear to figure out. The issue is that many things still need access to power when the ignition is switched off. If you have an electrical test light you can remove one of the battery terminals and then connect the test light "in- line" to the battery. You can remove all of the fuses and then start putting them back one at a time until the light lights up, that what is pulling power. Now this may be normal, you will need to look at a manual to see which items still have power when the ignition is off. I had to do this with my boat and it ended up being a short in my radio that was drawing 4 amps when the system was off. Usually a radio only draws a very small amount of power to retain things like your preset stations. Good Luck.
JP...You have to remember that when you jump start the jumpers are mostly connected the the cables and not distectly to the battery...there could be a faulty connection between the termnal and the pole of the battery. When trying to crank have someone listen for a loud click from the starter solenoid if you hear the click and the engine does not crank over it means the contacts in the solenoid are defetive. You can also check this by putiing on the head lights and If the light does not go very low when carnking, the soleoid is not energizing the starter. To check alternator measure voltage at baterry terninal and when you are able to start the engine check the voltage again...it it is not a few volts higher with the engine running you alternator is defective. To check for battery being discharged by some apparatus...get a DC amp meter with a 10 amp capability and connect is in series with the positive batter terminal...turn off eveything in the car and the ampere drain should be minimal and if you remove the fuse for the ECU it should read ZERO.
sfreeberg595, would that work here, because to many of the circuits are "Hot-Constant" on this vehicle,so not sure if any of those would show as a draw as soon as I plug them back in, or if they wouldn't show as a draw until the part that is powered by each "Constant Hot" fuse is turned on. Alfonso,deffinitely not a contact problem at batt terminals. This has happened before, but I load tested the batt back in Nov 16 & replaced it with a better one, because the one that was there(less then 2 yrs old) had prematurely failed. Replaced it on 11/23/16 w a brand new 5 year batt, and everything was fine up until 3 days ago when it all started again, hence my thinking that it is either the vlt reg built into the ALT, or a parasitic draw down on the batt. My thought on the starter is that it does work fine every time whether off the battery or with a jump. I was windering if the solenoid on that could be a parasitic draw due to something internally, I was just wondering about an easier way to check for a draw down, because the Starters & ALTs on these are a royal pain to get at and pull so I was trying to avoid it if poss. Question for you now is if i do what you said w the ammeter, wont all or some of the fuses that are "Constant Hot" in the fuse panels show as a draw? If pull the ECU/M fuse, that doesn't kill current to everything in the car does it? I thought the ECU/M only fed certain control/accessories.
Your problem could be larger that normal draw..Did you check the Alternator? The way i stated is very easy and very accurate. The volatge regulator in the alternator uses a controlled voltage but the output rectifier diodes in the alternator does not...one leaky diode can dischager your batterry in no time flat. To check for this condition the engine shoud be cold and if you have a leaky or shorted diode in the alternator the housing of the alternator will be warm or hot...it should not be so if the engine has not been in use..
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