2008 ford bantam
my 2008 ford bantam was leaking breakfluid somewhere as the pot was completely empty. i cant find a leak anywhere,notice about a week ago my clutch is starting to slip a little bit, can it be that the hydraulic release bearing is damaged and this causes the breakfluid to leak on to the flywheel and clutch plate?
the wheel cylinders are leaking. you can replace them at 18-30 ea. The clutch should be replaced both master and slave cylinders. There are kits available for master, slave and all four wheel cylinders or the two wheel cylinders and two caliper seal sets...assuming it doesn't have four wheel discs like a MINI.
will have to check these prices, the ones stated were launched out of my idium. If you like I can do the replacement part shopping for you (not pay for you) but locate the needed parts. we all have our preferred sources. NAPA is everywhere and they guarantee their stuff, but not my first choice.
so what u are telling me is that i have to replace the cylinders on the wheels,the clutch,the master and slave cylinders?
well not replace but pit new kits in everything
yeah man, get rid of the leakies. You don't have to do them all or go crazy in a torrential rebuilding weekend, just the one leaker. You will have to take the brake drums off and inspect the seals on the front calipers still...
but it's a little easier to put a new one in. and not too much more dinero-
or new two, or four if you had a ford courier *pain. but this is somewhat tricky business in that it is easy to overtighten the connections and the mounting bolts for this. Bleeding the fluid requires a delicate touch and is messy unless you have a capture bottle-
surely if there was a leak at one of the cylinders on the wheels i would be able to see it even before stripping as u have access to all of them, my biggest worry is the clutch that is slipping (not a lot tho), i bled the clutch line this past weekend and it has not slipped again,can air in the clutch line cause it to not release completely now and then and that causing the clutch to slip
please punch 'mark helpful' and send me over the 2000 mark. pretty please with brake fluid on top?
how would u like me to mark it as helpful if u are talking about my brake cylinders that i have to check after explaining there is nothing wrong with the cylinders. i am sitting with a clutch problem,far from break cylinders.
you said fluid was leaking and you had to keep fillin it. I pumped your score to 30. Just for being a good person. What are we GURUs gettin out of the deal....nuttin! no paycheck...these stupid points are all we's gots. Just the same, the fluid is leaking out of somewhere. Shouldn't we inspect to find out where? If you don't feel like doing anything it's nothing to me, but I did take the time to look up bleeding the brakes on a bantam. here it is: 1.Park the vehicle on a level surface. Place the vehicle in PARK (automatic) or REVERSE (manual) with the engine OFF, and apply the parking brake. Chock the rear wheels to prevent vehicle movement. NOTE: Wheel chocks may be purchased at your local auto parts store, or a block of wood cut into wedges may be used. 2.Loosen the lugnuts from all four wheels, but do not remove the lugnuts until the vehicle is raised and supported properly. 3.Use an approved jack and raise the vehicle high enough to place jack stands under all four corners of the vehicle. Place the jack stands under the frame or axles of the vehicle. Ensure that the front of the vehicle is raised higher than the rear. 4.Remove the wheels from the vehicle. 5.Clean all dirt from around the master cylinder fill cap. Remove the cap and fill the master cylinder with brake fluid until the level is within 1/4 in. (6mm) of the top edge of the reservoir. 6.Clean the bleeder screws at all four wheels. The bleeder screws are located on the back of the brake backing plate (drum brakes) and at the top of the brake calipers (disc brakes). 7.Attach a length of rubber hose over the bleeder screw and place the other end of the hose in a plastic jar. 8.Have an assistant place and hold pressure on the brake pedal. 9.Open the bleeder screw 1/2 - 3/4 turn. As the bleeder is opened, the brake pedal will travel to the floor. Have the assistant inform you when the pedal has bottomed out. NOTE: Do not remove pressure from the brake pedal once it is bottomed out. No movement to the pedal should occur until the bleeder is closed and the assistant is made aware of the situation. Failure to do this will draw more air into the system. 10.Close the bleeder screw and tell your assistant remove their foot from the brake pedal. Continue this process to purge all air from the system. 11.When bubbles cease to appear at the end of the bleeder hose, tighten the bleeder screw and remove the hose. 12.After bleeding each wheel, check the master cylinder fluid level and add fluid accordingly. 13.Repeat the bleeding operation at the remaining three wheels, ending with the one closet to the master cylinder. The pattern is, RR, LR, RF, LF. 14.Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the proper level and install the reservoir cap Frankly, go ahead and be a meanie- bwuh
your clutch if slipping will go to the floor, and will feel like nothing is happening, just returning to up position, no fluid gets pumped. Is the action of the clutch okay? are you leaking fluid that you can see on the ground. Is it coming out of the slave cylinder? It is your privilage to fix whatever you want to, just here to help you.
...and no. no fluid can get to the flywheel or clutch plate, this isn't a volkswagen or Saab. You say you keep fillin the reservoir and where does it go? gonna have to pull the brakedrums to find out where it's going. you have a leaking wheelcylinder, or both for that matter. they are only a couple of bucks each (for the rebuilding kits) and probably with any dexterity (you always wanted to be a surgeon) you can piece them together after having cleaned the old ones with a rag, or some scotchbrite-
marked it for u,really do appreciate the response. just one question, can air in the clutch line to the gearbox cause it to slip,cause it to not return as quick as it should?
the clutch just goes squish and the internal seals leak master and/or slave. replace.
let me explain.. i found the other day that the master cylinder was empty for some reason,could not see any leaks on the wheels or under the car or on the paving(normally u can pick it up there) so i filled it up again,knowing all the lines are full of air now.inside the gearbox u have an hydraulic release bearing that works from the same reservoir as the brake system,my question is can that unit not leak in to the bell housing and then get in to contact with the clutch plate and all that?
there is the master cylinder in the front of the hood and there is like a plastic slave unit inside the cockpit by the clutch pedal,i don't see any leaks there either
also i did not have to fill it again,it stays on the max mark now.
You've got to get a buddy to go under and bleed it for you, turn the fitting let brake fluid out, close the fitting, pump the pedal, open the fitting, let the fluid out, close the fitting pump the pedal will be nice and high, for a few minutes...until you put in the new one. That video made this procedure look HORRIBLE. It always seemed easier back in 93-96. Thanks for the points. It's going to make my fellow gurus mad and jealous. Kudos all the way 'round. Don't let the thirty points get to your head already...LOL as if.
I understand now that were dealing with the clutch and not the brakes. It took me quite a long time to figure this out. Easy peasey. ain't but a thing. That video pretty much showed it, but that car was all constricting and unfriendly. reservoir was remote, that usually is NOT the case.
yes, you are air bound. as you know air does not compress and won't do the job. must bleed the slave cylinder until all the air is gone. as I was saying earlier, the master just goes squish squish as the internal seals leak into themselves after they build sufficient pressure to activate the slave cylinder, this one can also suffer from internal leaks too-
these are the answers i am looking for man...
grab your resident greasemonkey and say 'get on your knees, man, and use this crow-foot wrench to loosen that fitting to let a couple of ounces out, then close it. if you had a handy walkie talkie, you wouldn't have to yell, although a grunt usually does it. If your greasemonkey has NO ability, you're going to have to do it yourself, screaming "OKAY, PRESS THE CLUTCH TO THE FLOOR" and 'okay, let the clutch up' hopefully this won't be a little kid with limited leg strength and can speak english.
btw. thanks for putting me over the top! kinda makes this job rewarding. monkey gets another banana-(virtual)....yay.
!!!!!!!!! Sorry dude few moths late but this should help future guys. more than likely the back seal on the the master brake cylinder is shot. This causes the brake fluid to leak into the brake booster. that is the reason you cant find the leak. Of course the booster could fill up with brake fluid as much as 2 or so liters before it starts sucking into the intake manifold, and at this point your car will smoke like nothing else. LOL. i know cause i had that one once before. So make sure that you also remove the brake booster. You can pour in a bit of petrol from the pipe that comes from the intake manifold give it a good shake and pour it out, repeat if you think there is still some fluid inside. also make sure that all the petrol is out before replacing the booster. the rubber diafram inside the booster is not 100 % resistant to petrol and oil and may with time eat away at the rubber. Good luck to you all with this prob. hope it solves the problem.
Looking for a Used Bantam in your area?
CarGurus has thousands of nationwide listings and the tools to find you a great deal.
Search Ford Bantam Questions
Ford Bantam Experts
Find great deals from top-rated dealersSearch