The valve timing will either be advanced or retarded from optimal which will lead to either rough idling or poor fuel economy. Check engine light will usually come on and codes for lean or rich operation may appear or for variable valve timing vehicles there will be codes for intake timing retarded or overly advanced. Worst case scenario in a high performance engine you could actually hit the valves with the pistons as they would still be open when the piston is at TDC. This is unlikely in most production vehicles
Car will idle rough.Engine will probably shake.The more teeth your off,the worse it will run. Uneven results in a compression test. Any car that has an "interference motor" will likely wind up with bent valves,if you use it.
The belt may have slipped or stretched or a tensioner is bad or may have been installed that way. Most times if off by more that one tooth it will not start or run bad or die soon after. The issue is if the engine was running or started when the belt slips too far or breaks then it will (if its an interference engine) damage the valves (at very least) and pistons.
Guys, thanks a lot. I will take it back ti tge machanic and have him double check it. I'll let you guys know. Thanks again.
Need help!!! my car is idleling at 2 and a half RPM when i start the car cold or hot engine, then when i turn on my heater or AC and tge compressor turns on, my car RPM idle goes up and car excelerates on it's own, where i have to press down hard on my brake pedal. Need help.
What car? Was it worked on recently?
A lot of times high idle is symptom of a vacuum leak, or (TPS) Throttle Position Sensor, IAC. Test for vacuum leaks, including around the intake manifold; where it meets the head. Not unusual for fasteners to back-off on high-mileage vehicles. Tighten in proper sequence and according to torque specifications. Does it still have the original (IAC) Idle air control? Check the PCV elbow. Make sure (PCV) is seated properly. Look for evidence of tampering on top of the throttle body where the throttle cable linkage is. Sometimes folks screw with idle-stop tab rather than investigate and resolve the cause of a low-idle problem. Make sure the throttle cable is moving freely and doesn't bind. Look at the throttle plate and ensure that it is closing all the way. Check for codes and investigate for dampness around and in the ECU under the heater core. In some cases, the heater core has been known to leak onto the ECU/EEC and cause weird issues. If you can't get any codes from the ECU/EEC, including a "111," have reasonably eliminated wiring faults and you've properly connected to diagnostic harness, try a 100% part matched ECU/EEC from a junkyard. (cases are stamped with a part number). Is your temp guage staying in the cold section if so test the (ETC) coolant temp sensor. A faulty engine temperature sensor can cause the ECU/EEC to believe that it needs to increase the engine idle to warm up the engine (and would also give you a check engine light).
Also brake booster uses and can loose vacuum from the engine as-well as the brake booster one-way valve in vacuum line to it, Throttle body may be dirty and not closing all the way, can remove and clean with throttle body cleaner and use a new gasket and do the IAC at same time and use only nylon brushes in assorted sizes.
Have it checked for codes Also IAC can be dirty but also the place it goes into can be dirty.
Thanks, I replaced the IAC with new one and the code are gone. I bought a new throttle gasket and about to fully cleaned the throttle body part. Whats a ECU and EEC and hay, you've giving me 100% possite direction regarding this issue
Thanks. I'll check all u suggested to check and due. Thanks again.
It is the computer.
Looking for a Used Escort in your area?
CarGurus has 1 nationwide Escort listings and the tools to find you a great deal.
Search Ford Escort Questions
Ford Escort Experts
Related Models For Sale