I’ve got a 1992 Ford F-150 Custom w a 4.9l straight 6... and she won’t start.
1992 Ford F-150 Custom w a 4.9l straight 6 and Standard transmission.. and
she won’t start.
Background first: I’ve had the truck about a year and have had a lot of work
done to fix urgent issues. (Cylinders replaced, brake lines replaced, rotors...
new gas tank and lines for 1 of the 2 tanks - only did one for my wallet’s sake
- after finding a fuel leak and rusted lines.... new clutch - twice actually
because I was to.d the pressure plate failed on the first - and a new
alternator.). When I went to get the truck after the alternator was replaced,
the water pump was leaking (later found it all busted up inside) but I had to go
so I was doing the pull over and water fill every 15 minutes to get by.
When I attempted to change out the water pump, I didn’t get a good seal on
the therm housing and got myself back in the same position. In the course of
this, because I got caught in traffic, the truck overheated to the point of dying
out 4 times total. If I waited until the temp gauge read cold and got a jump on
the battery, the truck would start and run fine.... until the last time.
I overheated and couldn’t get a jump to start her so she sat on the side of the
road outside the neighborhood for about 3 months before I managed time to
check her out. Towed to the house.
So... she cranks but wouldn’t start. New battery. Started with starting fluid
and ran briefly but only when I gassed it, and even then it was extremely
rough. Replaced the inline fuel filter and still no start. Rented a fuel pressure
gauge and the fuel rail shows 0 pressure. The inertia switch was Tripped
when i got it home from the tow, but I pushed it down to reset it before I
started all this. So I tested the relay - no issue. Followed the electric to the
tank selector. Continuity was all good. Didn’t get a circuit light when I tested
the line out to the pump, but did get the light and a 12v read on my
multimeter when I tested the line in for a couple seconds with KOEO.
Replaced the switch and got a good read/heard the pump click on/off w
So I was thinking bad pump..... so I decided to check and see if the rear tank
could hold gas, put some in, and tried to start w that tank. Same issue - no
start. Would both fuel pumps go bad simultaneously when they’d been
working just fine before the overheat? Seems illogical... though sitting for a
long time could have done something if fuel was bad....
Jumped the test plug and got a few codes but was my first time so I may
have f’d Up.... I got an EGR Code but would that effect the fuel pressure to be
0 when I turn the key to prime the pump and don’t even try to start?
Last bit of fun - went out this morning to start checking other things and the
battery is reading above 12.5, but it’s barely cranking and sounds like a
rundown battery despite the multimeter test.
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