1999 Ford F150 V6 Trouble/Inconsistant Starting

Asked by arwelsh Nov 12, 2013 at 07:49 PM

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

I have a rear wheel drive 1999 Ford F150 V6.

Last year I had some issues getting it started. I took it to a shop and they couldn't get it to
not-start but thought my description sounded like a fuel pump. I ended up replacing the
fuel pump relay (I believe a mechanic friend of mine also reset the computer) and things
were fine until recently.

It appears to be the same problem. It started to manifest itself after the batter died - same
as last time (yes I know batteries should last longer than that, last year it was an old
battery and this year I left a door only partially closed and left town for the weekend).

At this point I've kinda figured out what sounds I need to listen to to make sure the fuel
pump is cycling. I turn the key forward and it will normally either cycle or not before I turn it
over and it'll be a pretty good predictor of whether or not it'll crank. Some times it's
dependable for several days in a row and others it'll take 5-10 min and what seems like
100 tries to get it to start (again not trying to crank every time but just trying to turn it
forward to see if I can hear the pump cycle).

I really doubt it's a problem with the fuel pump because I haven't had any problems once
the truck gets going. It accelerates like a champ and never cuts off.

I just really don't know what the issue could be. I replaced the fuel pump relay again and
the problem persists. There aren't really any warning signs of when it will or will not start -
it seems completely random. I will say it's more likely to start once it already has in a given
day - I figure that's just because there's already some fuel in the engine.

Could it be an anti-theft issue? Some other electrical issue? Is it related to the battery
being replaced?

Forgive me if this seems like I'm rambling I just wanted to make sure I got all the relevant
info out there. A fix would be fantastic but just some idea of what the problem may be
would be greatly appreciated.

5 Answers

migration_judge_roy answered 10 years ago

Have you tested any of the voltages here? Like most vehicles these days, a layer of corrosion builds around the Negative 1/0 Cable at the other end that connects to the chassis ground....300 or more AMPS with every start...dis-similar metals actually WELD and bits of one is fused into the other...a layer of microscopic corrosion occurs and creates "brown power" which if measured seems okay, but when under load will go brown and unreliable with this certain semiconductor which must be wirebrushed with a coarse wirebrush then re-assembled to assure FULL 300 cold cranking amps AND the reliability of steady non-wavering voltage and amperage for the ECU, ignition, fuel and auxiliary components such as windshield wipers DRL's HEADlights and courtesy lights~

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migration_judge_roy answered 10 years ago

So break out with the coarse wirebrush...trace the 1/0 black cable to where it attaches to the chassis and unbolt, wirebrush and reconnect this VERY important connection, only responsible for ALL the electrical components in your car~

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migration_judge_roy answered 10 years ago

there is NO LEAD in batteries, but tin/antimony alloy which stop takin' a charge ten percent per year approximately...five years is what you can expect of a battery these days~

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migration_judge_roy answered 10 years ago

See, the fuel pump relies on THIS ground...the headlights rely on THIS ground...the STARTER relies on THIS ground (stooopid move, there)~

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