P0339 2004 Honda Civic - Makes no sense
Asked by Alex Nov 11, 2016 at 02:28 PM about the 2004 Honda Civic DX
Question type: Maintenance & Repair
2004 Honda Civic is throwing P0339 intermittent Crankshaft position 'A'
code. I've replaced the sensor 2 times, and have a spare ECU. Nothing is
fixing the problem. So, I've bypassed the Blue wire on Connector 'A' Pin 7
with a straight wire from the sensor... still P0339 code.
Put an Oscilloscope on the sensor alone... it's pulsing fine, with a 100ms
gap every 12 pulses with 42 ms pulses on the other 11.
I'm getting the same with the scope on the bypass wire connected straight
into the ECU. But it's still throwing the code.
The car will start into Limp Mode with original ECU after about 10 seconds
and the CEL light goes on. Spare ECU will not go into LIMP mode at all,
but does report P0339....
I'm just lost as to why still getting the P0339 with obvious good signal into
the ECU (unless someone can confirm this is not the correct pulse train).
After a month with the car down... it's hurting!
10 Answers
Did you check to see if the Signal plate may be damage?
you may want to also check that the Starter motor may be faulty, check Starting system circuit and possible weak battery
Battery is fine, starter doesn't seem to show any issues since it cranks without a problem. I don't know where the signal plate is, or what it is... but will google it. I can say the relays (blue, and brown) were also replaced. But the other 2 (both black were not). After clearing the CEL light, I'm not sure if after turning the key is should go out after a few seconds before cranking... but it stays lit. So I don't see the starter as part of the problem (obviously can't rule anything out at this point... but it shows no sign of issue) Will look into the signal plate.
Also want to add... the scope is showing the signal train as 5v p-p, so apparently it is in spec. There is no noise in the signal or random missing of 100 ms pulses (at idle). I didn't find anything online about a signal plate... if you have more information, that would be great.
this will help, copy and paste/https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V13pdAIQAik
Hi did u ever fix ur Civic here? Mine has exact problem? Goin nuts!
When my 2004 Civic did the exact same thing I cut off the Crank Pos Sensor connector and stripped back and examined the wires in the harness. I found that the ground wire, the brown and yellow one, had a dusty green appearance....corrosion. So I stripped it back some more, and some more, and eventually found clean shiny copper. In all I cut off about 12 inches of all three of the sensor harness, then sliced on a replacement pigtail and I was back in business.
I did that, I put a while new pigtail that had bout 14 in of new wire? Same thing?
Yeah, same thing. Initially I installed a cheapo EBay sensor and that didn't fix the CEL. Then I repaired the corroded harness but still no good. Then I checked for power and ground at the connector and continuity to the blue signal wire on the ECU and when all that checked good I removed the aftermarket sensor, reinstalled the original, and I was good to go. I'd stay away from the budget EBay sensors. The one I bought created a lot of unnecessary work for me.
SOLVED: p0339 nightmare If you are encountering this exact problem, you've fucked up one critical detail of the timing belt installation. There's a cam disc on the back of the tensioner that needs to be swiveled into place FIRST before tightening the bolt, If you have failed to do this, the active spring tension will stretch the belt ever so slightly over a few weeks, enough to cause a sensor error. You've got a stretched or otherwise oversized belt, though it will not be perceivable by your timing marks. I checked my timing 5 times 3 different ways, and it checked out flawlessly despite the problem. The dynamic movement of the sprockets under the influence of a belt and moving spring tension is what causes the ecu to protect the engine and trigger a p0339 I got a p0339 code not long after doing a head gasket job, crank, run 1 sec, stall. I replaced the cam and crank sensor (both twice), no change, the engine harness, no change, the ecu, no change. the fuel rail. I had finally had enough, went to the local junk yard and salvaged the (luckily new) timing belt, sprockets, and new tensioner off of anexact 1.7 sohc non vtec (d17). Installed the parts and for like $100 blamo! ran like a dream. After a month of nightmarishly confused anguish and pain I got her running. Unplugging either the cam or crank sensor with this issue will not allow the engine to stay running as you might have seen work in cases with an actual sensor error. I had tested the sensor outputs with a voltmeter and it tested fine, 5v blank, ~0v at tooth. nothing was amiss, no missing teeth, no open circuits, read fine at the ecu socket. I considered it was an immibilizer problem, that was also wrong, as the fuel pump didn't die before the engine stalled. It was the damn timing belt itself all along. I shouldn't have used the one that came with the car in the backseat, (this might also be the oversize issue, some belts (for vtec I think) are slightly larger I think)(secondly the tensioner cam should have been swiveled to the lock position) Live and learn.
