Check engine light for 2014 dodge charger r/t
I bought my car about 5 weeks ago fully loaded
and has a hemi, runs beautiful, the drive to work is
an hour both ways, my check engine light came on
about the 3rd day of driving this distance and I
took it in to the dealership where I bought it since
there is an extended warranty on it, there is 37k
miles on it, since it put it in battery save mode, my
auto start and eco won't work, they did some
flashing on my systems and check my fluids but
that's it, the light had came on by itself just prior to
taking it in, well, the check engine light came on
the next day driving home that hour drive, so I have
to take it back in, will they ever find what's going
on? I wouldn't care so much if it didn't affect my
auto start and eco, it drains gas fast without the
There has to be a reason the ck engine light is on they should be able to scan the vehicle and find a code or a pending code and test from there if its an intermittent issue it may not leave a code but will turn on light .Its easy for them to turn the light out but that doesn't fix anything have them tell you if there's a code or not
Visit your local auto parts store and let them scan the computer. Most stores will do it for free. Once you have the trouble code post it and we can help further. Also, armed with this information, you can go back to the dealer and get it fixed. Sounds like they don't like doing warranty work and are trying to dance around this! HTH. -Jim
Take it back to the dealership as it is still under warranty.
The code should have been there even though the light turned off but they didn't say anything about what it was or why, but I drove it straight back there today on a Saturday to explain how I just picked it up a couple days ago and the light is back on, they made me make another appointment. I don't know about anyone else but this really creates problems with my job, I have to make arrangements and time to mess with all this and it's stressful. It only happens when I drive for a decent amount of distance, my job is an hour one way and it happens on my way home from work, but the light will go off the next day after sitting all night. I found the light off again today after coming on yesterday, then I feel dumb for bringing it in to the shop, I still think they need to find why it is happening, even though it eventually turns off, since it screws with my auto start and eco which is inconvenient and gas guzzling when the eco turns off. Just flashing the systems isn't the problem apparently. I will ask them what code comes up and let you all know. Again, I drive anywhere between 45 and 65 down county roads and highway roads to and from work, I don't drive it fast and crazy even though it's a hemi and it's tempting, I want the car to last me for several years to come so I try to take care of it. My last charger was a 2010 sxt that lasted me till this past December and someone crashed into her totaling her, she had never had one problem ever, everything was still primo after the wreck except the repairs to the backend and front quarter panel where going to be too costly that insurance totaled it out, otherwise the engine and the rest of the car were still in great shape, no rust even. I also didn't have nearly as much electronics going on with my last one. So my thought is that the problems with the newer one may be from all the electronic components that are all tied together, who knows
Don't feel dumb about taking it to the shop with the light off. The code(s) is/are stored for several ignition cycles even if the light is off. Sounds like it may be an intermittent problem that can be a bugger to diagnose. Most often an intermittent problem is electrical in nature but with the trouble codes the dealer should know what to be looking at. Keep us posted and keep on the dealer. Let them know that you're not going away until it's fixed correctly. You deserve to have a car that runs and drives correctly! HTH. - Jim
Thank you for all the help and support on this, I will keep on them, even the gentleman I bought the car from at the dealership shows concern and said he will also check on it while it is there at their service center. I will be sure to let you know what I find out.
You're welcome. Glad to help. -Jim
Ok, my car went back in last week and they pulled the code p0741 and they did diagnosis unhooked trans connector inspected ok hooked connector back in transmission and then road tested for 32 miles, no check engine light. That's what they put, I drove it to work the next day and sure enough, the light came back on on my way back from work, it is several miles before the light comes on but it rests in between the mileage, so I don't get it, plus the light goes off the next day about afternoon time. I so don't want to call again to tell them that it is still a problem but we plan to take a long drive next month and I don't want problems when we do. They just can't find the problem. What do you think? The car can be driven all around town without any problems, it's just when it is driven several miles that day, not even all at once.
That code is for the torque converter clutch (TCC) circuit. It's saying that the TCC in the transmission is stuck off. Most likely it's the TCC solenoid. They sometimes stick. The code won't set until you hit cruising speed and stay there for a few seconds. That's why it doesn't always trigger the check engine light. Check with your Dodge Dealer see if this is a known issue. If so a technical service bulletin (TSB) may have been issued to solve the problem. But it's definitely a TCC stuck off problem. HTH. -Jim
Thank you, I will definitely take this to the service Dept at the dealer where I bought it and who has been dealing with my car. I will see what they say and do about it. Why can't they figure this out? Seems like it didn't take you long at all to have the possible answer, can this be damaging?
You're welcome. Glad to help. It shouldn't damage anything. You won't be getting as good gas mileage, especially on the highway, but that's about it. It's kinda like driving in third (3 on the shifter quadrant). If you have a tachometer you may notice (in drive) the RPMs are a bit higher than what they should be so that'll eat up some gas. On some vehicles you can actually feel the TCC lock in a few seconds after the transmission shifts into the highest gear. For example, my '08 Grand Marquis cruising at about 70 the tach stays right around 1500 RPMs. HTH. -Jim
I haven't brought it to their attention yet that the light went back on and off, but I will, the thing is, the past two days I wanted to see what driving in sport mode would do the entire trip, as I figured, the car never showed the check engine light again, it's weird, the RPM doesn't seem to be high but maybe I just don't think it is high, it does use quite a bit of gas each day, about 1/4 of a tank for the whole trip each day, but I guess I just expected it being my mom's Jeep liberty is a gas hog just like it, but her Jeep is only a 6 cylinder. I will test it again in normal mode on Thursday when I make the warsaw trip again, tomorrow is only a half hour drive each way and I don't think that's far enough, maybe it is and I can test it out tomorrow, I definitely won't let this go, but it is very interesting how it has stayed off while using the sport mode. To be continued....
Thanks for the update! Most likely in Sport Mode you're not supposed to have overdrive and TCC lock in. That's why the light doesn't come on. My 2000 Grand Prix (different car) has lost overdrive and TCC lock in. A common occurrence in these vehicles. I keep the shifter in "3" so it doesn't try to upshift into overdrive and have TCC lock in. Runs fine there but in drive it whines. Similar to your Performance Mode I suspect. HTH. -Jim
I mean "similar to your Sport Mode". Sorry. -Jim
Man, so that means the problem is still there and I am just delaying the inevitable, tomorrow I will drive that hour each way distance on regular mode and just have to put up with the check engine light so I can see it is still going to be a problem and then have to call the dealership again and let have my car, crap, oh well, they need to fix it anyway, thank you and I will let you know, thanks again, Shawn
You're welcome. Glad to help. Yes, please keep us posted. Armed with this information they should be able to fix it! -Jim
The car is back in the shop finally, I told them exactly what you said to look for, they told me today they are getting a valve body cover for it, I also was told they were going to take the transmission out but I am not sure they did that, they promised it would be fixed 100 percent this time but we shall see, it is a huge inconvenience for me so I hope they truly do fix it. I will let you know what happens once I get it back.
Awesome, sounds good!! Very glad they're looking at it and going to check out the transmission! Yes, please keep us posted. Sounds like they're going to fix it this time. -Jim
I got my car back and so far so good, we drove 118 miles last night and no check engine light, woo-hoo! I told the service department to drive it the same amount of mileage I was driving it at to test it out before giving it back and they did with no engine light, hopefully they didn't just permanently disable the check engine light to make sure it doesn't go on for sure, lol, the valve body and some gasket is what they changed on it and he guaranteed me it was 100 percent fixed, so I am hopeful, again thank you for all your help in this situation, it is very much appreciated. :)
Awesome!! Very happy to hear that!! Thanks for letting us know!! I doubt they'd disable the check engine light. But to check it turn on the ignition but don't start the engine. The check engine light should be on steady until the engine is started. -Jim
Well, coming home from the trip and the light has returned, I am so disheartened by it, I was very hopeful, we still have an hour or so to drive and we all know what that means for gas when the eco doesn't come on, I guess it goes back to the shop
Oh NO!! That really STINKS!! Yup, take it right back!! You may want to stop by your local auto parts store and have it scanned to see if it's the same trouble code. Please keep us posted!! I'm very sorry to hear that!! -Jim
The code that came up on the paper they gave me showing their work was po741, then states, "did test passed test call star star said replace transmission valve body" so they did that and drove it on hwy and city roads for several miles and the light never came back on for them. My husband thinks that they are trying to fix everything first before having to change the entire transmission, I am all covered 100 percent at least if they need to do it, but it sounds like a project that will take long to do, but I just want it fixed already, if it didn't cause the battery to go into safe mode which knocks out my auto start, eco and sport mode, I would just not bother anything until something actually acted up, the car doesn't do anything weird or out of the ordinary when the light comes on
That's the only trouble with warranty work. They try to fix it rather than replace the transmission. Whatever they deem is cheaper. I ran into that with the transmission on an '02 Impala I had. It cost GM $4200 to fix it (twice) rather than just replace the transmission for $3500. I'm sure there's also a deterrent factor as well. They hope that people with warranty claims will just go away. Again, I'm very sorry to hear of this!! Keep on them and keep us posted!! HTH. -Jim
They told me they called Chrysler last time and they said it was the valve body so they changed that and that cost was 1,000 dollars all by itself, I know the dealership is just as frustrated as I am, they even said they drove the hell out of it before giving it back and the light never came on but it didn't come on for me until after over 100 miles this time. It has been taking longer for the light to go out though also, he told me he was calling Chrysler again to let them know it wasn't the valve body. I sure hope they figure it out soon cause I am tired of driving these smaller less faster cars they give me, they are brand new cars but they just don't compare. I will report back just as soon as I find out anything.
They need to be looking at the torque converter clutch, torque converter clutch solenoid, and the wiring in that circuit. I'm willing to bet it's the solenoid. The computer is commanding the torque converter clutch on once you get to cruising speed but since the solenoid isn't doing it's job the torque converter clutch isn't locking in and the computer is seeing that. I was hopeful that the solenoid was part of the valve body. But on your application I guess it's not. Let's hope they get it right this time!! Please keep us posted. HTH. -Jim
I just got a call saying they were going to change my torque converter and that it is on back order so it would be awhile, holy cow, I am having to drive a little Chrysler 200 still and it is was small, at least it is a 200 S I guess. So we shall see if that will help my car, if they change the whole converter will that take care of the cylenoid?
The solenoid is a separate part. About $60.00. The torque converter, on the other hand, is a $500.00 part. So I hope they checked the solenoid by commanding it on and off a few times with a scan tool! The torque converter is only available through Chrysler so it's believable that it's backordered. Especially if it's a high failure part. If I were them I'd eat the $60.00 and replace the solenoid to be absolutely certain your problems are solved. HTH. -Jim
Hey cutie pie, did you ever get this fixed?
Car is still in the shop waiting for the torque converter part to get in, I very much worry that it isn't the problem being the car doesn't act up in the ways other cars do that have that problem, but we shall see
Thanks for the update, Shawn! Keep us posted! -Jim
My 2014 dodge charger sxt engine light came on for about 3 minutes than went back out while my car was seating still any idea what could be wrong???
Start another thread :D
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