Why is my clutch on my Toyota 5 speed not building pressure after bleeding

I had a clutch problem with my '89 truck similar to yours. If I remember correctly, I had replaced the clutch. pressure plate, throw out bearing. I think I even did the slave cylinder. After reassembly, I wasn't able to get my truck to shift right. The clutch was all mushy and it was like I had to force it into gear. I think I bled it over and over with no success. I finally figured out the problem. Not sure if this is your issue, but it could be. Get a flash light and look up under the dash where the clutch peddle is. Way up on the floor boards, there is a piece of metal that I think the clutch spring attaches too. Anyway, look up there and work the clutch with your hand. Do you see the metal flexing when you push in the clutch? My metal piece actually tore. Every time I thought I was pushing in the clutch, the metal flexed so much, that I really wasn't engaging the clutch. I had to drill a hole through the piece of metal and put a bolt through it and the fire wall. I believe the hole came out near the brake fluid reservoir. I just put a bolt straight through and put a nut on and tightened it all down. Clutch worked 100% when done. Not the best description, but it was many years ago when I fixed it. Sold the truck about 3 years ago. Would send pics if I still had it. Hope this helps.

Ever figure out what the issue was?

Interesting post here, been looking for a solution to a issue ive been having. I have a 1989 Toyota pickup v6 rwd. Clutch was slipping and finally went. I knew I needed a new clutch kit even before it completely burned up. Got one, put in new rear main seal, pilot bearing, flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing all when I had the trans out. Also note the pedal was going all the way to floor completely and not coming back when I totally lost the clutch. Anyway replaced all that. Still had no pressure. Completely to the floor, unless I pulled it back some for return spring to pop it back up. Thought OK maybe its the slave cylinder. Didn't think master because I did that like 4 yrs or so ago. Did the slave. No go. So got a new master cylinder and tried that too. Bled it a bunch. Still goes straight to floor like described initially. Fyi the slave cylinders rod is totally pushing on the throwout bearings fork. I really don't want to but have been thinking I may need to drop the transmission and triple check all my work inside the bell housing again. Another note is that I actually did get the shifter to shift a little bit before trying to test it and actually starting it up but then when I tries to go in reverse gently nothing but light grinding. But that was the only time I was able to move shifter out of many attempts after working the hydraulic system and finishing clutch kit install. I am going to look for this piece of metal you posted about ! If you have any other solutions other than dropping the trans again. I'd love to hear them. I now feel something may have gone mechanically by pedal when I lost the clutch completely and when that pedal went straight to floor before I even replaced the whole clutch kit and all of the hydraulic cylinders after that.

I am having the same problem with my 1989 Toyota manual transmission I replaced the clutch master cylinder slave cylinder throw out bearing new oil and the clutch won’t engage when it is running it won’t drive at all so I was wondering if you had any pictures of where you screwed and drilled the hole for the clutch pedal

97 Toyota pick up 22RE clutch doesn’t engage till almost all the way out what could it possibly be?