I have a 1965 mustang with a stock 289 with a no spark issue.


Asked by Feb 24, 2017 at 03:48 PM about the 1965 Ford Mustang Convertible with Bench Seats

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

Stock 1965 Ford Mustang convertible with a stock 289 and auto trans.
I have a stock 1965 mustang with a stock 289. Was actually a friend who passed away and I am trying to get it running to sell for his widow. It needed a battery and start solenoid, A fuel pump and filter and the old gas to be drained out. I have also replaced the points, condenser, plugs, cap and rotor. plugs gapped at .035 and points at .018. I have verified fuel by removing the fuel line at the carb and cranking with the fuel supply coming from a fuel can with fresh fuel. My problem is I am not getting any spark for ignition. I have also replaced the coil and verified that I am getting voltage into the pos terminal of the coil with the key on. voltage I'm getting seams to be low at 6.0v +. Not sure if that's normal. With the key on, I use a remote starter button to crank the motor and check for spark at the coil wire before it goes to the distributor. Any ideas why I am not getting spark and what to check for next? Kevin

12 Answers


1. Replace coil wire and try again; bypass ignition--run hot wire directly to coil. try again. 2. make sure points are connected, condenser replaced and connected , ground wire in points connected... check for spark at points--try again. 3. If you have a Rally Pac; disconnect black wire and connect to red wire (bypassing it). 4. buy new set of Spark Plug Wires. 5 buy new coil--standard 25,000 volts. Its got to be running now.


If its not getting any spark after this--e-mail me DavidRucker271@mail.com... I know these cars--but if you did what I suggest--you probably have spark now


If you still have no spark--Go to an Petronix II Ditributor--abpout $249 at summit... Problem is likely there IF... you've got coil in right... Bypass (HotWire first) Distributor will need update anyway and will be the likely problem if all else fails. No more points--better mileage--clean fast starts


Thanks for the reply David. If it were mine I would definitely update to electronic ignition. In this case its a bit unreasonable to ask her to put in a $250 distributer. She doesn't have that kind of money. I'll let the next guy do that. I will trace your procedure from step 1. Most of it is all ready done. Replaced the coil. Points are replaced, connected and gapped. condenser is replaced and connected. Points grounding wire is connected. not sure how to bypass ignition--run hot wire directly to coil. Not sure what a rally Pac is. Is it an aftermarket part? This car is completely stock. Haven't checked for spark at the points. Will get a set of wires on my way home from work. Was gona get them with the rest of the tune up parts but had to wait for them and decided against it. Its got me scratching my head. Its not a complicated system. I'm sure its something simple but I keep lookin past it. Thanks for your help. I'll let you know how it goes.


If you are only getting 6 volts to the coil that is most likely the problem. Maybe a partially broken wire or some other issue. This article might help you --- http://www.gasenginemagazine.com/gas- engines/understanding-breaker-point-ignition-systems? pageid=2#PageContent2


Thanks for the article. I'll have a look. Not sure why I'm only getting 6v. When I first started troubleshooting I measured it at battery voltage of 12.3v. Haven't done anything from the coil to the key. Just from the coil and on. Can I run a jumper from pos battery terminal to pos coil terminal? Will it burn up my points or other? Maybe if I crank with the remote starter and the touch jumper to pos coil??? I'll look for a break in the pos wire. Thanks, Kevin


Oh, Is that what you ment by bypassing the ignition? Kevin


Got your messages 1. one wire 3 feet long with alligator ends--attach one to pos term of battery--the other to pos term of coil--your car is not "Hot" as if you turned key on--try starter... if it fires or not--remove "Hot" wire as leaving it connected will fry your points/or coil over a few hours/days; if this works; you'll need to also disconnect wire to stop car from running; AND you can isolate the problem BUT First--attache new coil wire (I think that is the problem). 530-578- 0132 JC call after 7 AM PST and before 7 PM PST; thanks, JC


Car IS HOT--error on line 2 above "now" for "Not" ... car is "now' Hot


Thanks David, I'll try it this week end and let you know. Kevin


make that wire 4 feet; I have a 65 289 K-code vert in the garage and just measured it... leave the wire on as long as car runs (car won't stop until you remove--you won't get zapped either. I'll be home Saturday


The 6 volt reading at the coil with the ignition in the run position is normal. In the start position you should have 12 volts. There's a resistor in the circuit to step down the voltage so the coil won't burn up while running. HTH. -Jim

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