Radio

70

Asked by HPride Jan 13, 2018 at 03:37 PM about the 2012 Ford Fusion SE

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

Just jumped my 2012 Fusion. There is no sound
coming from the radio. The radio powers up and
appears to be playing music but no sound will play
on AM/FM, cd, or sync

17 Answers

101,345

Did you have an amp installed or any third party components? Make sure they still have power, check all fuses, and check if there are any inline fuses which aren't in the fuse box but may still have blown when you jumped the car. If it's all stock, may also need to punch in security code in radio, check your manual if that is needed.

9 people found this helpful.
70

I do not have any aftermarket sound system installed. How do you get to the screen to punch in the security code?

4 people found this helpful.
101,345

You'll have to consult the owner's manual for that, if you don't have one look online for a copy.

2 people found this helpful.
157,115

Jump starting today's cars is just sometimes a bad idea.

3 people found this helpful.
70

The battery is still at 93% life just the cold drained it and needed a little boost to get it started but if it did damage the audio output circuits I’m guess the only option would be to replace the radio?

3 people found this helpful.
157,115

Try disconnecting the battery cable for a couple of minutes and reconnect it. It may "reboot" the radio.

3 people found this helpful.
157,115

It will not hurt anything on a 2012 Fusion to disconnect the battery. You could remove the radio fuses briefly and possibly that would reset it. Tennisshoes has some loose strings in his tennis racket regarding this vehicle. Quoted from the Fusion owner's manual regarding battery replacement is the following....Because your vehicle’s engine is electronically controlled by a computer, "Some control conditions are maintained by power from the battery. When the battery is disconnected or a new battery is installed, the engine must relearn its idle and fuel trim strategy for optimum driveability and performance. To begin this process: 1. With the vehicle at a complete stop, set the parking brake. 2. Put the gearshift in P (Park) (automatic transmission) or the neutral position (manual transmission), turn off all accessories and start the engine. 3. Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature. 4. Allow the engine to idle for at least one minute. 5. Turn the A/C on and allow the engine to idle for at least one minute. 6. Drive the vehicle to complete the relearning process. • The vehicle may need to be driven 10 miles (16 km) or more to relearn the idle and fuel trim strategy. • If you do not allow the engine to relearn its idle trim, the idle quality of your vehicle may be adversely affected until the idle trim is eventually relearned. When the battery is disconnected or a new battery installed, the transmission must relearn its adaptive strategy. As a result of this, the transmission may shift firmly. This operation is considered normal and will not affect function or durability of the transmission. Over time the adaptive learning process will fully update transmission operation to its optimum shift feel. If the battery has been disconnected or a new battery has been installed, the clock and the preset radio stations must be reset once the battery is reconnected."

2 people found this helpful.
157,115

I agree on some vehicles like Porsche, BMW, Mercedes it probably isn't a good idea to just disconnect the battery. I have disconnected the battery without issue on our 2014 MKZ with all the electronic goodies and have had zero issues. I have also frequently disconnected the battery on my 2014 Dodge Ram to reboot the Sirius radio when it gets stuck and I have had no issues. I guess if the owner's manual mentions it then it would be safe to do so. The important "firmware" memory that resides in the modules and computer are written into non volatile ram and will remain intact will the newly relearned functions are written into volatile ram and lost when the battery is disconnected.

1 people found this helpful.
220

Same thing happened to mine but before everything became mute, there was weird static noise

22 people found this helpful.
300

Ok, was this ever resolved. The radio in my 2015 Fusion SE is doing this as well. All factory radio/speakers. Didn't jump the car but suddenly no audio comes out. Not even thru Bluetooth. It will make loud pop/scratching noise before it happens. Then also when it comes back.

24 people found this helpful.
30

I gave up on the Stock Sync radio, I installed a very nice Android aftermarket radio, here's the one I used: http://www.abrandao.com/2019/12/review-ford-fusion-android-car-radio- navigation-aftermarket/

3 people found this helpful.
180

I have the same problem in my 2013 Ford Fusion. We were on way home from store when the radio started popping. We turned it down. The following day we had no sound. It is stuck on one station and none of the presets work as well as the radio button. Nothing changes. The following day the batter died. Replaced the battery but still no change with the radio. I pulled all the radio fuses (which were a bear to reach - what idiot designed that location) and the amplifier fuses and none were blown. Radio is still not working. I can't seem to find any answers to what may have caused this.

18 people found this helpful.
30

@BAHamrick was that ever resolved my radio did the exact same thing in may of 2019 and I can’t seem to figure it out. I have been having a Bluetooth speaker for a long time now.

3 people found this helpful.
300

Hey everyone, I spoke to an audio who explained the issue but I can't really recall nor explain. Simple answer and resolution was to change the radio. I bought a used stock radio from ebay, roughly $24. I popped open the panels and changed it out myself. It's not hard (I'm female lol). Just remove necessary panels and screws, disconnect the bad radio, reconnect the new(ish) radio. I bought the radio a little after my first post on here and it's still working.

5 people found this helpful.
30

I have a 2012 Fusion that was towed and then towed back to my house. Ever since it's return, the radio/speakers have a mind of their own. At first it started as a popping noise and then it went silent. I changed the fuses, it worked until I hit a bump, as was the case initially. I could slam my console and it would work for a while and then stop. I've noticed also the buttons on the steering wheel no longer light up, nor so the lights in the center console Park, Drive, Reverse Etc.. 2 days ago it came on, the speakers sounded great, they aren't busted at all and I tried not to hit the slightest bump knowing it would pop and/ or turn off. I pull into my driveway, put in park, turn the volume up just a bit, and this loud hum took over so I turned the car off, but the back right speaker was still popping. I took the keys out, locked it and could still hear the back speaker popping!! I got back in and the loud hum was back and the speakers were scaring me bc the radio was completely off. After a few minutes of turning the car off and locking up it finally stopped, but today I heard the back LEFT speaker pop, again with the radio completely off. There is obviously a loose wire but could this be an electrical problem as well? Is it safe? I recorded the sound if anyone knows how I can attach an mp4.

1 people found this helpful.
80

Hello all, noticed nobody ever resolved this so i felt it was important to tell all of you what the problem is. First off let me tell you that I have 2 Ford Fusions (one with Sync 1 and the other with Sync 2). Mine is Sync 2 and my teenage daughter drives the Ford Fusion with the non- touchscreen Sync 1. I bought a new stereo for both cars, it's a 13" vertical screen stereo (looks like a Tesla style stereo) for both cars because I wanted both cars for have an updated look and stereo system. About 5 months after I bought these stereos my car (Sync 2) started having these loud popping sounds coming through all speakers followed by what it sounds like to be arching (like the sound of someone welding). Then it wouldn't do it for weeks. The occurrences started becoming more and more frequent, so I asked myself. Did I spend way too much $ on these $800 stereos? After a long while of troubleshooting I realized that it was not the aftermarket stereo at all. When you buy these new system you have to keep the "heart" of the old system in order for the new stereo to work and still have the Sync2 factory operating system. And I realized that part of that "heart" was the ACM (audio control module). I replaced the ACM with a new one and poof problem solved. It's your audio control module (sits behind your stereo) that is your problem. Pull your stereo out, look at the ACM module serial number, Google it, order a one, wait for delivery, disconnect battery, install new one, connect battery, and problem solved......you're welcome!

8 people found this helpful.

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