2002 BMW 325CI CONVERTIBLE ROOF LEAK

Asked by neropenn Aug 14, 2013 at 02:41 PM about the 2002 BMW 3 Series 325Ci Convertible RWD

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

MY ROOF LEAKS WHEN IT RAINS RIGHT WHERE THE ROOF MEETS THE WINDSHIELD ON THE PASSENGER SIDE. IT DOES NOT LEAK IN THE TOUCHLESS CAR WASH. IT SEEMS TO COLLECT IN THE BOTTOM OF THE GASKET THAT IS ON THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE WINDSHIELD TOP THEN DRIPPS DOWN ONTO SEAT.

4 Answers

60

You might have a clogged drain. There is a small hole located above each pillar corner. Run a wire while you pour water to dislodge debree until wire feeds freely. Do the same in the other drain passage. Inspect door vapor barrier

6 people found this helpful.
20

Checked drain clear I think it needs to be adjusted driver side is closer than passenerger side at final clamp down can it be adjusted

2 people found this helpful.

I have the same issue in a 2002 330ci. It’s not fully seated on the driver side. I believe the issue relates to the locking mechanism in the back on each side, or the roof not properly extending fully out on that side. Evidence to that point: at the midpoint in the roof is a joint. It has a small air gap on that same side too. All of this originally started because the gears in the gear motor under the seat started slipping. This motor locks in and release two cables, presumably locking in the rear hard lid that covers the convertible top when the roof is down, and is a base for the back of the roof to sit on when the roof is closed. To temporarily remedy the gear slipping you can put force with your hand down on the cover of the gear motor and it works. I replaced that plastic cover with an aftermarket metal cover and that solved that problem. But that caused another problem, the roof was not extending all the way to the windshield. It stopped about 3-5cm short. The front latches would activate but not able to reach the pins they need to lineup to. I decided to reduce the cable tension as far as j could and this fixed that issue and the roof extended all the way and latches. So I thought anyway, until I was caught in a rain storm and started experiencing water leaks. It is natural to think that the front latch isn’t pulling down tight enough, but after studying it, especially what changed, I still think it’s caused by the cable motor cover change or the cable adjustments I made on that motor. I assumed those cables only lock down that rear lid, but perhaps those cables do more. Does anyone have any input?

The convertible top storage compartment cover lock motor is on driveshaft tunnel under the rear seat. It consists of a motor with Hall sensor, gear assembly and two bowden cables connected to cover locks on each side of the cover. The Hall sensor detects locked/unlocked position of the cover. During convertible top operation (raising or lowering) the CVM II (convertible top control module) signals the General Module (GM V) over K-bus to unlock the storage compartment. The lock motor runs 180° to unlock the cover latches. The motor always turns in same direction to lock or unlock. Once motor has turned 180°, the Hall sensor will signal GM V to switch off motor. At the same time, GM V will signal CVM II to continue top operation.

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