How do I change transmission fluid & filter on my 2010 Toyota Camry ?
I would suggest bringing it into a shop to do this, since you have not done this.
What engine ....Mileage? If the Owners manual and maintenance schedule is available....check it out. Let us know what it suggests.
How to change the automatic transmission/transaxle fluid on Toyota Camrys 2007 through 2011 that do NOT have a dipstick. I have seen a couple of procedures for changing the WS transmission oil of Camry 2007-11 on the internet and they are unusually complex, time consuming and produce inaccurate fluid levels. Toyota claims that their WS Transaxle fluid will last for the life of the car and also doesn’t say when to replace the power steering fluid. Any fluid which services moving parts needs replacement as with time it deteriorates. There are several complex reasons for it, too long to be explained here, but involve the chemical breakdown of the oil and fluids from the internal friction and heats it is exposed to over time. This drain and fill will rectify the problem if your transmission hesitates before shifting from 1ST to 2nd OR 2nd to 3rd gear when cold and when the engine just revs up without going into the next gear. Do this before you ever consider taking your car to a shop for transaxle problems. Valvoline MaxLife Synthetic Transmission fluid will mix with Toyota's WS fluid without any issues and is a much higher quality fluid. Here is what I found that worked. The Basics: • Transmissions are used on rear wheel drive vehicles. Transaxles are used on front wheel drive vehicles. • Engines and gear boxes use oil, transmissions and transaxles use hydraulic fluids. Both are oils but the hydraulic fluids have a special quality that make them uncompressible in pressurized spaces. • This procedure is for Toyota Camrys with U660 and U760 transaxles. These Camrys do NOT have a dip stick. • The total Transaxle fluid capacity of Camry U660 or U760 is approx. 6.7 quarts. • The full quantity of transmission oil can’t be replaced unless you dismantle it totally and then reassemble it OR you hook up a flushing machine by tapping into the input & return pipes of transmission oil which are connected to the heat exchanger. Both these options are complex, time consuming and expensive. TOOLS YOU WILL NEED: 1. 6 mm hex socket & ratchet or long handled 6mm Allen Wrench. 2. 10 mm socket & ratchet. 3. 24 mm socket & ratchet. 4. 18” of socket extensions. 5. One bobble head or universal joint. 6. Foot Pound and Inch Pound Torque wrenches. These can be rented at most automotive parts stores. The inch pound wrench is important as I have seen many transaxle pan bolt holes stripped from over tightening. The inch pound wrench is only required for reinstalling the pan bolts to torque if you are changing the filter. 7. Infra-red temperature gun. (If you have to actually do a level check.) 8. Funnel & Plastic pipe 9. Jack (This can be done without putting the car on stands. They just make the reach to the pan bottom easier.) 10. 4 - jack stands. (Car must be level for fluid level setting.) 11. Wheel chocks. 12. Drain pan. ( short and wide if doing this without the jacks) 13. Rags/gloves TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS (from the Toyota Service Manual) • 6 mm hex socket bolt overflow plug to 30 lbs.-ft • Transaxle pan filler tube to 7-inch pounds. (barely finger tight) • 10 mm pan bolts to 66-inch pounds. • 24 mm refill port bolt with crush washer to 36 lbs.-ft. HOW TO DO IT: 1. Make sure the car has been parked overnight and everything is at room temperature 2. Turn the steering wheel fully to the left 3. Jack up the car 3-4 inches leaving the wheels mounted. Car must be lifted on all four corners to level for correct setting of fluid level. (This whole process can be done without jacking up the car as long as you have a wide shallow oil pan that fits under your car.) Set parking brake. Place wheel chocks on both sides of opposite corner wheel. Jack up the driver’s front tire first, placing jack stand under main frame as close to the front as possible. Next jack up the right front tire and set it on a stand even and level with the other front jack. Do the same with the rear wheels so car sits level with the front stands . 4. Remove the two 10 mm bolts on the left (driver’s side) side wheel well plastic shield. Push the shield downward, it will pivot on a hidden plastic plug, until the 24mm fill bolt becomes reachable, 5. Loosen the 24 mm oil fill bolt & remove it. Be careful to not to lose the crush sealing washer. 6. Loosen the 6 mm hex bolt of the transaxle drain assembly. Be careful, hex bolts are notorious for getting a slipped head, so be sure to insert the hex socket fully into the bolt before trying to loosen it. 7. As soon as you remove the drain bolt, fluid will drain out for approximately 5 minutes. Once it stops draining, move to the next step. 8. Using the same 6 mm hex socket, reach in the drain hole with the hex socket and unscrew the plastic overfill tube. It’s screwed in loosely and will come out easily. Just use the hex socket and your fingers to prevent damaging it. There is no O-ring on it. 9. Once you remove the plastic overfill tube, more transaxle fluid will drain out for about 5 minutes. 10. That’s it, nothing more will come out. At this point you can pull the pan and replace the filter. Reinstall the drain bolt and the plastic overfill tube 11. Using a measuring bottle, verify the exact quantity of oil drained into the drain pan. It should be about 3 quarts. 12. Refill the transaxle with the same amount of fluid. 3 quarts of transaxle fluid is what is listed in the Toyota Service Manual. 13. Start the engine and watch the temperature of the fluid by pointing the infra-red thermometer into the overflow hole. You will be able to see fluid flowing through the hole and by gently shifting the direction of the gun you will be able to tell when you are actually reading the fluid and not the case. The fluid will become hotter than the metal case. 14. Once the fluid reaches 104 degrees Fahrenheit pull the hex drain overflow plug and let the fluid drain with the engine still running, When the fluid flow reduces to a trickle or spurts the transaxle is at the correct level. This must be done with the engine running. As the engine will continue to heat the fluid to higher temps you must start this immediately upon reaching 104 degrees and be finished before it reaches 113 degrees to be accurate. 15. Install the drain plug, 16. Turn off the engine. 17. Torque all bolts to specs.
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