Went to bleed the system and pressure keeps pushing coolant back into the funnel

Asked by Feb 12, 2017 at 06:37 PM about the 2010 Chevrolet Camaro 2SS Coupe RWD

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

Replaced radiator, & thermostat.

14 Answers


It will until the thermostat opens up. That is just the air working its way out. Once the thermostat opens the coolant level will drop. Have extra coolant to pore in to top it off. Let it cycle a few times to make sure all the air is purged out.


What kind of vehicle?

It's a 2010 Camaro SS automatic

I did it for several minutes it wouldn't stop boiling and flowing to the top of the spill free funnel. It was running around 217° and it just kept making a loud banging noise inside of the radiator. I never delt with this kind of issue before


Could the thermostat ben installed upside down or backward, which ever?

No I installed it and on the l99 engine the thermostat comes with a gasket that has a tab that lines up with the housing when you install it.


Is there a bleeder to open when refilling the cooling system to let out the air from the block when refilling? So the block fills up with coolant. Also need the heater set on hot so it circulates threw the heater core. And of course it did not run hot before doing this work?


I found a technical service bulletin for somkething similar, reference the bulletin number for a fix. A/C, Cooling System - Gurgle or Rattle Type Noise Bulletin No.: 09-01-37-001B Gurgle or Rattle Type Noise Coming from Instrument Panel, Heater Core, Transmission Area

1 of 1 people found this helpful.

I'm not sure if it there is a bleeder to open or not. No it was running hot before it's supposed to run at 187° degrees it was staying around 190°-200° at highway speeds and when it was at idle it would run hotter and you could smell coolant but there was no visible leaks. I had to replace the radiator because the trans cooler on the rad leaked into the transmission. Figured I would replace the thermostat too. 42,000 miles I'm having more problems than my 35 year old k10 is having with 70,000 miles this car is a lemon.


If the water pump eroded or failed, that could be causing the boil overs. Don't overheat that engine by driving it like this. At least inspect the water pump if you can't solve it. But first ensure the radiator fan is turning on, and no hoses are kinked, including the heater hoses. If the pump looks good, but has some crud on it, you may need to flush the coolant passages. Did you ever mix coolant types? That can really cause a silt-like build up of coolant sludge.


Look for a bleeder valve, looks like a bake caliper bleeder, may have a nut on the bottom of it, but there usually by the thermostat housing. You open that up when refilling the cooling system. Once you see coolant coming out of it, then close it. This lets the air out of the block when filling it. Also, have you noticed white smoke or a sweet smell from the exhaust?


Yes, kmcgmc is right on the water pump. The impeller erodes away and so would need to be replaced.

I looked this morning but it has been cold so I can't really tell. It could be a bad gasket but it's highly unlikely at 42,000 miles. I checked the oil this morning there was no trace of coolant in the engine. f the water pump is bad wouldn't you hear it squealing? No mixing I only use dex cool. There was sludge left over in the reservoir but that was because the trans fluid was mixing with the coolant. Should I try flushing it again?


No, flushing would be a wast of time. You should take the water pump out and check the impeller. It is either eroded or just spinning on the shaft. Thats all it can be other than the dreaded head gaskets, and cracked head, which at this point is unlikely.

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