I can not get my 5.7 timed

you can be setting it on compression side. so you are a round off. take your dist out turn crank shaft until no. 1 comes back up. then put dist back in.

http://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion-t2359_ds637798

http://answers.edmunds.com/question-1999-Chevy-Suburban-5-7L-timing-problems-152776.aspx

I put those in separate windows to make it easy to hyperlink. Here is the key part: For the V8 5.7L-- After setting distributor, Then connect a scan tool. Monitor the Camshaft Retard Offset value. Important: If the Malfunction Indicator lamp is turned on after installing the distributor, and a DTC P1345 is found, the distributor has been installed incorrectly

While looking I found this post by Tom, the Tom that is the all-time heavyweight undisputed champion points leader here, and deservedly so, Just substitute Suburban for Tahoe, it's the identical 5.7L engine: "In the Tahoe the distributor does not control timing. It controls the synchronization of the cam sensor and the crank sensor. The only way to set it accurately is with a class 2 scan tool. There will be a PID in data for cam/crank offset. The distributor has to be turned until this reads 0. Any more than 4 degrees off and it will set a P1345 code and run rough." End quote

I thought it was supposed to be set on the compression side

the distributor does control timing. if you take it out you got to make sure that no. 1 piston is up and the rotor is pointing to the no. 1 plug wire. what tom is referring to is if you loosing the bolt and turn the dist.

OK bandit, makes sense. Thanks for the clarification. My lesson learned

look at the marks on the harmonic balancer get the timing marks lined up to tdc. then look at the rotor and no.1 piston. the piston should be up rotor should be pointing to no. 1.

No problem Fordnut. I learn something everyday too. I'm also not always right and I don't claim to be.

Did you get your truck timed.

its two too one on crank so cam turns one for each revolution of the crank so it’s gonna be 0 degrees on scan tool also as its on compression #1tdc

an to be posific before exhaust valve intake should have just closed before compression stroke or just get bolt same as spark plug put in spark plug hole for #1 a inch longer an turn crank by hand till stop put mark tunk backwards till stop again and then put a mark measure it an put one dead cinter an correct crank time cam itself normally you can do same with #1 except when valve cover off flip floo vust rocker stat lifting is a mark an hit ghe middle mesure mark your gonna add blah blah its just simple its how you make your own marks an set it a hair out from being right at number 1 wire on cap and then you shouldn’t throw a code i don’t ever use a channer it’s the true way harder bht then you know you doing it right