How do you change the motor for the 2006 convertible top

Asked by GuruTY44 Apr 02, 2017 at 05:16 PM about the 2006 Chrysler PT Cruiser GT Convertible FWD

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

3 Answers

59,025

Need repair manual. Sometimes you just have to get to it and do it, need a engine crane, and pull all Electrical connections loose, If its your first I would list every item & tag it with location ect. I also would take out items like the radiator, anything that is in your way, take loose the motor mounts, decide if your going to pull it attached to the transaxle. If so take the axles out and its mounts along with all those electrical connections. Use some zip ties to get things up out of the way. Pull the items connected to or threw the firewall off the engine. In you repair manual it will tell you what to remove or where to hook the chain hooks. Drain fluids, unhook exhaust, disassemble anything that could cause an issue like taking the exhaust off at he manifold instead of at the collector. The electric fans ect. Use some penetrating oil can be cheap like dap, just let it have enough time to work things will come loose better.

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59,025

Check out Website, copy & paste url: http://www.justanswer.com/chrysler/67qrb-p-how-remove-engine-2005-pt-cruiser-p.html

110

You need to pry out every panel in the back seat area once the seats are removed. Remove the seats by releasing the catch on the back, rocking them forward, and lifting. In the trunk roof there is a screw which you turn to allow manual operation of the top. Close the top. Check the car handbook. Start by taking the cover off the back deck while the top is closed, it isn't glued down, but stiff, with velcro at the sides. The actuating motor/hydraulic unit is right there. Drop the top so you can do the work. You'll need metric tools for this job including Allen wrenches. Prybars are also useful and perhaps you'll want a bunch of photographs if you don't trust your memory on how to put it all back because it'll take awhile...EVERY panel has to come out. The hardest thing is the seat belt bolts; be sure you have the exact right star-bit or you might strip them and have to cut the hardened steel heads with a diegrinder so you have flats for a spanner wrench. Prying the panels off requires patience and care because sometimes it seems sure they'll break before the clips yield but none broke on my job. The new motor unit has the two cylinders and perhaps some instructions but it is pretty obvious how they go. You'll have to snip the hard hose hold downs to remove the old assembly but cable ties can be threaded up from below and over the new ones to hold them down, the lock won't go through the hole. The top needs to be partially open to allow access to the cylinder bolts. The job is a hassle but it saved me a thousand bucks! Incidentally, it is usually leakage of fluid from the cylinders that is the problem and if you want a quick fix to get it out the door, you might try just refilling the hydraulic reservoir. There are two hex socket bolts on the top of the unit; one of them is for refill. Thus you need only to remove the rear deck fabric cover. No guarantees on how long this will hold up of course.

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