My suburban won't start.
Turn the key on and all gauges come on, and dome light comes on fine.
security light goes off just fine. There is no fuel pump noise that it is running
for the normal time it does when the key is turned on. Turn the key to start,
and nothing, no clicks, no nothing. Lights are fine, no dimming. Tried to
Jump start, and same thing, no change. What should I look at?
Would the battery be dead? or bad connections with the battery cables?
Tried jumping battery and no change. Possibly the relays or cables? I'm really hoping it's not the starter but the fuel pump not running tells me it's something else.
Yes that is a clue the fuel pump not running. Power is not getting threw somewhere. The fuel pump should run with the key on. Check the battery cables, at the battery, look for corrosion, clean the connections.
Battery terminals are clean, and it won't crank, so what would make the Fuel pump not run and also not be able to crank the engine either? Would a battery be able to light up the indicator lights and dome light when the you turn the key, but not run the fuel pump?
Having the starter not work, and the fuel pump not work, indicates a specific problem. Yes the battery can light up the dash and the dome light, even if it is low on charge. Just have to start doing some checking, like see if there is power going to the small terminal on the starter solenoid when someone is turning the key to the start position. Also need to check if power is running to the fuel pump. First thing I'm gonna say is to check all fuses, and the starter and fuel pump relays.
I've verified that the fuel pump does indeed work. But no clicking or any noise from dash when key goes to start. I'm back to thinking it's the starter or solenoid.
It could be like I said check to see if power is going to the small wire when someone is turning the key to the start position. If there is power there then there is a problem with the starter, or starter solenoid.
I got power to the Starter, so it's the starter. Shouldn't be to hard to replace, looks like 2 bolts and the wires to the solenoid.
That is on the small wire when someone is turning the key to start right?
yeah, hooked up the 12V probe tester. Turned the key, and light comes on. Even tried it with the auto start, press the button, and as it's trying to start, the light comes on, no clicking or anything from starter.
Then you have a starter problem. Replace the starter. Just make sure the battery cables are in good shape, clean and tight.
The "fuel pressure regulator / sensor" is a likely cause. It's only a $20 part and it's fairly simple to install. The pressure has to be about 55 psi in order to start the Suburban, and once it's running, the pressure only has to be 40 psi or so (I'm generalizing).
I replaced the starter and it starts. However it sort of starts a bit weird like something may not be lined up, but there wasn't anything that came off other than the starter. Is there possibly a shim needed for the new starter?
Chevy makes starter shims that you can get at the parts store. It will be trial and error process to get it right.
It did seem like it went up a touch higher than the original.
Ok, so the starter did great for a few days, a couple times it would do a slow crank at first then start a good hard start. This morning it's banging and clanking like something is broke and I can't start it like a tooth is busted off the gear.. Is that from shim wrong?
Gotta pull it out, look at where the wear marks are on the teeth to know what is going on. Inspect the ring gear. I know this is a head ache getting it right.
This may be a stupid question but I'm not quite understanding the shims as the bolt mounting holes are static, does not appear adjustable. How do the shims come into play, is it an in and out thing, or an up and down thing?
It is a up and down thing for adjusting the mesh of the starter gear into the ring gear. Check this out, it is a pic. of the starter with the shims to give you an idea.... https://www.carid.com/1999-chevy-suburban-charging-starting/bosch-starter-35691874.html
Ok, that makes way more sense, thanks. It did seem like it mounted up higher than original a bit, but no shims came off of original, and I was under it in a parking lot at night. Hope I didn't bust a tooth off the starter.
Ok, so the starter wasn't engaging so I used the .60 and now it seems way tight. Do I come down to the .40 or go to the .20? Or just a guess? I'm hating taking this thing off again and again.
You aut to be getting good at it by now, lol, and you must be talking .06 thousands, so that is tight, try the .04. Trial and error.
The .06 wasn't working, and I said tight, but I think I meant to far away, so wasn't engaging. Put the .04 on and worked great, for about 2 weeks, then wouldn't engage for a turn then engage. Sometimes worked, then sometimes would seem like it missed and then would engage. If I have the .04 in now, and the .06 was too much, what else is going on? Gears on starter appear like it's too close. Have yet to try the .02.
Yes try the .020 thick shim, but while your there inspect the ring gear teeth.
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