Battery draining

Id check to make sure door pins are ok. Sometimes domelight draws power. Next the ignition , radio , sometimes under hood light

Ok! I was looking at the ignition tonight, I removed the plastics around the steering column to get to the ignition, and of course, it takes a funky tool to get it out... So I liked at what I could, and everything that I can see looks to be ok. But not I can't get the pickup to start at all now, could be coincidence, or could be the battery is too low again..!? Or maybe that's it and I bumped a wire...?

And as for the radio and other lights.. What an I looking for, bare wires and lose connections right!?

There is a number of youtube video's that show ways to narrow down the circuit draining your battery in-which you can located it and repair it. You can look for them but as a note you can check the circuit 's fuse without taking them out, each fuse has two metal tab(small) you touch to with multimeter, when the voltage is showing you know that the drain circuit and fine what is on the fuse.

I've watched a few YouTube videos.. But didn't think to check each fuse with the voltage meter itself. So I would put the ground on the negative on the battery then use the positive lead on each fuse...??

Th There is a number of youtube video's that show ways to narrow down the circuit draining your battery in-which you can located it and repair it. You can look for them but as a not you can check the circuit 's fuse without taking them out, each fuse has two metal tab(small) you touch to with multimeter, when the voltage is showing you know that the drain circuit and fine what is on the fuse. e reason I am posting this video is because it point out how to test without pushing any power threw the circuit possible harming the computer/electronics. copy & paste it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdIKNnwEjIs

@TrannyMan...I did that pull of the negative a while back and have been running the pickup many times since. Just threw that out there as things I've tried before. A friend suggested that, but I know now not to do that again! I don't need any more complications! Well I have to turn and push the battery calls a certain way just to get it to start, normal is like one or two times, but I did it many times tonight and nothing. I gave up for the evening and gonna try again tomorrow... after I replace the battery terminals!

Here is a video showing the no fuse pull technique. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YhC8xj5vHUg

@enginecreator...I will check it the video you posted for me! Thanks!

I agree to leave the neg battery cable in place.

Ironically, I run an electrical department for a trailer factory. I can fully wire and work on, chase shorts, and everything on a camp trailer, by myself if needed. Lol I can do most basic things on older pickups just by taking them apart and watching videos on how to do it. But I also know that a parasidic draw on an electrical system can stump many people. So for my own sanity and to save face, I've got to do this on my own with a "real mechanic".

This one show leaving the neg cable attached: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lRcj1fQcWwU

*without a real mechanic...

OK, I watched that video on checking the fuses with the VM.. definitely gonna try that tomorrow! Thanks again guys!!

Cool, hope you find it

nice question.. but there are really 3 type draws but parasitic draws "key-off" loads even if everything is off. so a 85-milliamp draw is not all that uncommon on newer vehicles. That is absolutely true. Memory seats, mirrors, radio presets, satellite radio, GPS systems and lots of other fancy electrical gadgets have combined to greatly increase the electrical demands of many newer vehicles. However, just because an 85-milliamp draw may be normal, that doesn't mean an 85-milliamp draw won't adversely impact battery lifespan and performance, if the battery isn't properly-maintained...... **** i think your battery is no good...and would fail a good BATTERY LOAD TEST..i run several little 12 volt dah lights at night out back and my battery is still ok..... also my ZO6 has so much stuff sucking on the battery RESERVES.. that if it sits 4-5- days its gone dead dead...

Hello, please describe how your car is not starting, is it making any noise when you go to crank? Id like to know if your getting a starter output from your ignition, (+ polarity), than, I would like to know if your starter is ok. jump the car or use a new battery, if it starts right up, than starter should be fine. I have seen a loose starter wire also where the bolt that attaches the o - ring comes loose. But first I need to know the symptoms when its not starting. A picture of your battery terminals may help me determine, have some wiggle the wires while maintaining safe distance from moving parts of engine and see if any changes while cranking, it may have loose wires...

Hi! I have the same exact truck, and am having the same problem. Got a new battery and it will still drain after about a hour of driving, pulled the fuses, dome everything you have and I was wondering if you found out what it was?

Each could be draining for various reasons, I would look up on youtube and net to find instructions to hunt down the circuit in question.

after getting a new starter and new battery i thought everything was ok last night i went outside and heard humming from under my truck while it was off. my low tire preasure light had been on all day.the humming was coming from where my spare tire is .next morning my battery was dead its 2 months old any suggestions

I had a problem dating my battery on my 1998 Dodge Durango. It was the amp on the firewall on the riders side shorting out the battery

I have a 2004 Ram same issue. It ended up being the remote starter. It was bad causing the battery drain as well as frying the ignition switch every few months. I was driving around for ever with the #51 fuse out of the truck so it wouldn't drain the battery. Hope this helps some of y'all

Does your truck have rear doors? There's a wiring harness that runs from the pillar between the front and back doors to the back door. It has a lot of wires for many things (alarm, power door locks, power windows, speakers, door ajar warning light, lights...). Every time you open or close the door they bend back and forth. How do you break a wire if you don't have a wire cutting tool of some kind? My harness needed replaced. All of them were broken and shorting out. Just replace both. Even if you only notice a problem with one side. You are welcome.

Exactly the same issue as OP. Removed battery, checked fluid level, hooked it up to trickle charge, and it readily accepted the charge. Put it back in and reconnected both cables, and engine started. Allowed to sit overnight, and checked battery voltage at 10.3VDC and engine would not crank. Jumped off and allowed to run >10 minutes, battery voltage reading 14.8V at that point. Removed Negative cable, and battery voltage slowly drops, while engine continues to run. Shut off engine, measured amperage draw with Negative cable disconnected (parasitic draw): 32.5mA. Left Negative cable off and Waited 30 minutes: battery voltage down to only 12.7VDC Waited another 30 minutes: battery voltage down to 12.63VDC Reconnect the Negative cable to battery negative, heard electrical 'zzt' noise, battery voltage immediately drops to 10.4VDC, and engine will not start. 23 'Answers' Without a single ANSWER ?

This is very interesting. I bought my brothers Ram, Hemi 1500 2004. Guess what? Had it since August 2018, not long,. The exact problem, Dead truck as you've all described. I'm heart sick, wanna just unload it. Thank you PH

Parasitic drain/short, locate it, fix it, there is your answer or take it to a shop and let a pro find it for you.

I have a wonderful 1995 Dodge Dakota and I have the same BS FROM IT I AM GOOD MECHANIC LOL GOOD LUCK THAY SUCK WHEN THAY SUCK... BUT WHEN SHE RUNS SHE BLOS THR TIRES OFF JUST ONE OF THEM THINGS $$$$?????$__

My 2002 Ram 1500 had same problem. Ignition switch could allow key extraction in the acc position (1 click behind off) Sooo my dash lights and other circuits stayed on causing the battery to discharge.

have 2004 ram same problem tried everything replaced cluster 400$ still not fixed.

05 1500 hemi similar issue here for 2 years on/off now, new batteries etc.. buzzing up under dash little red light on occasion. Intermittent parasitic not easy to diagnose.

NMich5pt7- check your ignition switch in steering column they are prone to not being in full off position.A few times of this happening and drawing battery down below 10 volts and a standard battery gets beat up pretty good.Especially if you don't use a good charger to recharge and not just jump start it and drive it.I have had the ignition switch issue pop up a couple times on mine same year and model as yours. But just now getting ready to install the third battery 15 years on two batteries factory 8- Aftermarket 7.

2002 Ram 1500 - same power drain. Mechanic tested and checked and said they could not detect any drain. I recently bought a manual switch for the Negative pole on the battery. Truck sat 12 days. I put the switch in the closed position and the truck started right up. A bit of a pain? Yes. Less of a pain then jumping the battery.

I found a parasitic draw on the circuit that feeds the door lights, etc. On that circuit was a light under the hood (after-market). Disconnected and removed "most" of the draw. There is still a "small" draw. should it not be zero draw?

$15 battery disconnect.

I had a amp draw of .678. Tracked problem to the ,seat belt switches. After unhooking both, amp draw is now .147. JOB DONE