BAS/ESP intermittent issue. Vehicle loses acceleration

110

Asked by Sofia Jun 13, 2014 at 02:00 AM about the 2001 Mercedes-Benz SLK-Class SLK 320

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

My 2001 Mercedes SLK320 is experiencing an intermittent BAS/ESP issue. When
driving, the vehicle loses acceleration but not power, engine still runs and I can still brake.
Turning the steering wheel all the way to the left lock position and all the way to the right
lock position does no good. Unhooking the battery did not work either. Took it to a shop
scanned the computer and came up with various codes. The shop manager recommend I
replace the brake lamp switch first and that did no good. Took it back and they suggested
I replaced the K40 Relay. That also did not fix the problem. Finally I got fed up and did
not take the car back to that shop as I felt they did not know what in the heck they were
doing. Mind you they specialize on Mercedes yet they can't pinpoint the problem. Odd.
From then on I took matters into my own hands. The most recent part changed was the
accelerator pedal sensor (Code P203B/P0221) I hired a mobile mechanic to change it?
however he told me this is probably not going to fix the issue but worth a try. Well he was
right this also did not fix the problem.

If this helps the last time I was at the shop they pulled 2 codes:

P203B in ME for faulty accelerator pedal sensor (changed part)
&
C1022 - CAN communication for faulty ABS Control Module

They wanted $1600 to change both parts (HA HA yeah right I don't think so) I can
recognize when someone is trying to screw me over. This was quite evident so I left and
never went back.

Also note: My ABS light has not come on once since having this problem only the
BAS/ESP light. Not sure if that means anything. Check engine light has not come on
either since having this problem.  

Another note: The BAS/ESP light does not come on first and then the car loses
acceleration, it happens at the exact same sequence, THE light comes on and car stalls
at the exact same time so it is very unexpected and dangerous. When the car stalls I just
turn the car off real quick and restart it and it lets me drive again until it decides to cut out
again. The car seems to be driving just fine. It just cuts off. Mobile guy is really betting
this is bad wiring but I'm just all over the place in my mind and don't know to think
anymore.

Lastly after speaking with the mobile mechanic who changed out the accelerator pedal
sensor he recommends I have him take all my wheels off and have him check all of the
ABS sensor harnesses for faulty wiring causing a bad connection. He seems to know
what he is talking about but I thought I could get a second opinion and possibly gathering
information that I was unaware of. I have received so many different possibilities as to
what could be causing this issue but I am at my wits end with this problem I don't know
what else to do at this point and don't have an indispensable amount of money to spend
on this.

PLEASE HELP! I really need it!!


Thank you very much!!

16 Answers

160

Check the Forum at SLKWorld.com. Theres plenty of SLK afficionados there who encountered this issue and will give you sound advice as to both DIY solutions, or reasonable repair cost estimates. Its the best site going for any SLK owner.

16 people found this helpful.
120

Hi I met exact the same issue - 2001 mercedes ML320, also replaced pedal accelerator sensor which did not work. Looking for guidance please!

12 people found this helpful.
160

i have the same problem with my ml320 2001. need help

9 people found this helpful.
160

it seems that it is related with sudden brakings.

7 people found this helpful.
30

My 2001 ml320. Sudden and high to low speed braking always cause the same problem. Solution??? Thanks dan

3 people found this helpful.
110

Hey Guys, Alright so after 2 years of dealing with this overwhelmingly frustrating intermittent acceleration issue, my mechanic finally pin pointed the problem. It was a faulty Throttle Body. I believe this has to do with fuel injection. Ultimately he told me oil got into the throttle body which was causing the problem. Before my mechanic switched out the throttle body, he had to change out my entire pedal assembly because he pulled a fault code. The reality with this problem is there may be more than one culprit causing the issue and in my case that is what happened. Changing only the sensors will not work. You have to completely switch out these parts. DO NOT BUY USED PARTS BUY THEM BRAND NEW OEM BOSCH! This is not a one day fix and I would recommend taking your car to a knowledgable mechanic to deal with this issue as this is not something you should try to fix yourself.Trust me we tried. Also note that when I was experiencing this problem my check engine light NEVER came on. It should have but it didn't and that's probably because of the faulty sensors. After the throttle body was switched out the check engine light still did not come on. HOWEVER after the fact, I drove about 2 drive cycles and my check engine light finally came on and pulled 3 codes. I am mentioning this because you too may experience this. The 3 codes I pulled were: P0410 PO170 PO173 You can find the Throttle body assembly on Partsgeek.com for about $305 AND you can qualify for $15 off since the cost is over $300. The code for the $15 off is: (SAVE15) Below is the direct link for everyone's convenience: http://www.partsgeek.com/ss/?i=1&ssq=0280750019&x=0&y=0 Hope this helps!! Happy Holidays everyone!

11 people found this helpful.
60

Hello Sofia! I would like to check to see if you are still having issues with acceleration or not? Just want to see if changing the throttle body did indeed repair your issue?

6 people found this helpful.
30

i can,t andastand what is this problem start car no acceleratur i have check com CODE P0507 THIS CODE idle speed control impausible .THIS CODE C1022 FAULT in can communication with me N3/10 I have accerelarur padel sensor change throttle body change but no problem solve ,i can,t andastand,please help me

1 people found this helpful.
50

It's ur yaw sensor. I replaced mine $1300 no problem since. I have a Slk 320 2002. My nephew a master mechanic for mercedes. I kept losing power and engine was still on, it scared me happened 2o times. Called nephew in another state he diagnosed over phone. Mb dealer mechanic pulled codes and agreed. No problem since. Have it checked out.

5 people found this helpful.
10

When a Mercedes Benz throttle body has been changed it needs to be reset.Within the (ME) motor eletronics ( learning full open and closed throttle positions) If codes remain as in c1022 CAN fault / no comm with (ME) the process will not be completed until fault is resolved.The (CAN ) controller area network is were the data is transfered. If one of many componets on the network is having a CAN problems the data to relearn throttle may not be possiable. Mbtech.

1 people found this helpful.
10

any body check there transmission plug to see if its wet , then trans computer ??

1 people found this helpful.
110

Muhammed get your your a Code tester reader and erase the ecu cpu by plugiging in the Scan tool into your OBD2 connector .. once it has reset clearing out all data then oit should pick up the new sensor as the only sensor to running in it ..

110

BAS issue is check your tail lights and break switch .. and break light bulb connectors .. as they corrode and get weak signal .. due to this problem causes the BAS light to come on .. if not find there then check one of your whell speed sensor wires or the sensor can as well be bad ... but it is not a big cost to fix.. very cheap fix .

1 people found this helpful.
110

or yes correct next is YAW sensor located inside your sift console little small box about 1inch by 1 inch ... or 2 inch not very big at at ... plastic crap box sensor ... but that YAW sensor you can get cheap as well on ebay...

3 people found this helpful.
110

>>>>>YAW Sensor- is cheap around about $40.00 to less then a $100.00 <<<<<< /// not no $1600.00 anyone tell you take to a mechanic shop is crazy.. this sensor like i sayed is located inside the shifter console ... down inside the console you will see it in front of where the shifter cable connector is at .. two little 10mm bolts hold that little crap plastic box and a electrical plug in connector ... is to replace ...

5 people found this helpful.

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