Anyone can help?

Run a code reader on it.

I have tired but nobody around has one that will go to a 94 just 96 and up

When I bought it the transmission line bust and transmission line went everywere under the i have tried to clean everything I could and it seems to run better and longer. Could the oil have something to do with this issue?

Well, I have a snap on brick from the 1980's so I know they are around. It reads all OBD1 & OBD2 codes and does more than standard readers do for which there are older units that read back that far too, So I would find a shop to take it too they should have a real scanner. May could find one dirt cheap on ebay, but if its a snap-on brick make sure it has all the cartridges and hookup and keys for domestic.

Oil is important but in this case if you reset the ecm it cranks again sounds more like a electrical component. One reason I said get the codes read is it will point to what needs checked and then it needs looked at and tested to see why it set that code or codes, may not be the sensor but wiring to it or a vacuum leak or bad connection or a fuse blown or even the ecm, One way I have found bad ecms' is if I can read it or not. Sometimes with my snap-on brick I cannot see the ecm, times it is a blown ecm fuse and the car is running in limp mode or its the ecm is bad and running in limp mode. So until you get the ecm read for codes, if check engine light is not on you still may have codes or soft codes and they need checked but go ahead and look for bad fuses under dash & hood, loose connections, find the ecm and check its fuse, Look at engine to frame grounds good or not and ecm ground good or not. look for vacuum leaks.

May could even coil, igniter pick up module, distributor. One thing also is when its not cranking back up be ready to do some test. Test for spark. Test for fuel. See if you have one or the other or neither. If possible after checking all the fuses ect from earlier post try a non good ecm to see if yours is bad.