2006 Ford escape not charging

Asked by Aug 29, 2017 at 02:21 PM about the 2006 Ford Escape XLT

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

I have an 06 escape that's not charging.
I put a new alternator on after mine
went bad. No small feat let me tell you.
Still not charging so I took it back to the
auto parts and it checked out fine. I
reinstalled it, grumble grumble, and still
no charging. The fuse is good and the
fusible link is good. How do I test the
three wire plug to the alternator and
what should I be testing for?

5 Answers


HI did you check your battery first if it's taking charge ? Sometimes we have to start from the easiest one first then go for the rest hope that helps !

1 of 1 people found this helpful.

Be very careful with what your doing on this rig, if you disconnected the battery without using the preset saver tool you may have wiped the factory presets out, if that is th case then a dealer is the only place to get those presets back, also the charging system is computer controlled and one wrong move and you left with a vehicle that won't run. If you have a live data scanner see if it can read the battery voltage and the signals from the ECM to activate the charge system, if no signal then it won't charge, if that is the case then it time for a new processor. If you have signal but still no charge then start looking for a broken wire in the charge circuits, also not easy on a Ford Escape. You may also have a code stored that could give you an idea on where to start but if you disconnected the battery then that will also be lost. HTH

Thank you for your answer. Do you know of a wiring schematic for the charging system?I just changed out the alternator pig tail, still no charge. Should those three wires have continuity with each other?


I don't have that diagram, but you might try your local library's reference section and see if they have a shop manual on your vehicle, then you can photo copy what you need and take it home. As far as continuity, as they all go to the ECM so they may have with the key off and the system in KAM mode, only test for signal on these wires using a lab scope or a signal reading device that can show you on/off signals or waveform patterns, anything else can cause a feedback and then poof your all done running wise. One customer of mine was not paying attention and it wound up costing him well over 1500 bucks to get everything fixed and his car running again, so just be careful.

1 of 1 people found this helpful.

After much searching and some gray hair growth I've found that the three prong connector is supposed to have one constant power and one key on power but nothing on the third wire our which is which. power wi

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