2010-2012 OBs are clones. You're wise to avoid the first year's production. '11-12 still
use the older SOHC t-belt driven motor, so although heads are probably clean you should
have a wrench take a peek at the t-belt, as well refresh the iridiums, fluids (esp the CVT!)
and air filter, of course.
My biggest concern with the '10-12 OBs (and '15+ for that matter) is the substandard
handling from lack of body control because of soft suspension. A moderately successful
low-cost upgrade is to replace the skinny rear swaybar with Subaru's own fatter (19mm)
one. The result will be a VERY satisfying reduction in rear-end lag and yaw. You won't
mitigate the front end dive nor all the roll, but for about $300 you'll approach the far better
body control of the '13-14 iteration. (Note taht removing the old swaybar end-links can be
difficult, so it's easier to just install a new pair with the swaybar; takes only a half hour.)
Forgot to mention that you should NOT buy an OB "basic", but only a Prem or Ltd.
You'll improve road feel considerably by getting H (or even V)-rated tires instead of the
heavy-feeling T that it probably has. (Disclaimer: I have a modified '12 and late '13 OB for
sale here in Boston if you feel like flying in and having a fun return!)
I should probably mention that the '13-14 Leg/OBs also have the peppier new DOHC
chain-driven motor that also squeezes +1mpg or so. Hence I specialize in the '13-14 sub-
era, but the '12 I modified was so clean I had to buy it!
Your highest risk in chasing one is getting a defective CVT (either bad torque converter or
worn internal bearing). This is easily assessed during a test drive unless you hear a worn
wheel bearing masking it. Other stuff like bad CVs, brakes, tires, etc., are easily assessed.
Good luck!
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