Certified to touch my E-250
Can somebody please help me? I have had three or four
mechanics now tell me that they are capable of working on
my E250 1995 and it's not the case. I am so frustrated!!!
Please, somebody out there tell me what specific
certification one would need in order to be able to take care
of my van?
Go to a Ford dealer since you do not trust mechanics.
I can tell you from experience that OBD I (pre-1996) Ford products are VERY difficult to work on when you have a check engine or service engine soon light related problem! It is a VERY long, drawn out, and unnecessarily complicated procedure. I'm sure that very few mechanics know what needs to be done or, honestly, want to be bothered with a 22 year old vehicle that is so difficult to work on! I bet the Ford dealer won't even go near it! Sorry!! HTH. -Jim
Take it to a established shop thats been in business for years & years. What is wrong with it? These are not too old and there are many people around still working on them, just call & ask, if you need a PHD certificate put on a wall to see then you will be looking a long time, but there are many that know what they are doing. I still have my snap-on brick that I used on these OBD 1 & 2, I know others still do too, I went to school and can not tell you where my certificate is, heck leaving with my $25000 snap on brick computer and every cartridge and key and attachment to hook up to any car with OBD1 or 2 and every update & manuals & repair books ever made and my tools is my certificate, tough time fixing them without the best tools & education ever made/given, now days the computer tells the tech whats wrong and they are parts changers and do not know how to diagnose issues, that is why most of use are here to answer questions as we diagnose issues and know from our time spent in the shop.
Someone that went to Auto mechanic classes in the mid to late 1980's to mid 1990's.
Go to a shop and look for a mechanic nearing the age of 50 ask if he learned his trade in the time period above. Shops with 20 something's working, keep looking. They do not have testing training. Or dealerships may have one worth working on it but then again they work with teeny weenies. So your best bet is a shop thats been around for 35+ years with old timers inside working or an older dealership. What has been done to it by these people that cannot fix it?
the latest fad seems to be ,tune in youtube, some lunatic you can bet is doing it its the poor mans alldata , I swore the car makers have been secretly doing this for several years now
I took it in because it was misfiring. This is what they did and driving away the sputtering was gone. 20 minutes later, when accelerating the engine went straight to idle and wouldn't respond. Check engine light goes on and I'm screwed. If I put in park anf turn off the engine, it will reset and allow me to drive for another minute or so until same thing. Won't move when push gas pedal. Supposed to try and make it back there tomorrow but will be surprised if it will make it. Likely have to pull off road every couple minutes to 'reset'.
Gave them $900
Oh Lord, those prices for basic tune up items as plugs & wires changes is ridiculous. I personally want to know if the ECM is the issue you have because of the resets after turned off then does it again after a minute of running fine, If you can get a scanner set up on it while driving for that minute and retrieve the code or codes before it resets it would help to track it down, can leave the ignition on and retrieve codes before turning it off would be my first try then drive it with scan tool hooked up (scanner needs drive mode) then watch for changes out of range to zero down the failure. I would be interested in the grounding wires to frame/body for the ECM, engine & battery grounds, well all grounds need inspected, It appears to me it is cranking up and ECM is finding or having a fault, then goes to set values or a basic safe mode to try to keep it running but the parts bad is far gone and will not function, all the components with wires need tested, may take a while to locate it with it only running a minute so if the code can be retrieved is why it would help. Need someone with testing tools and a Snap-on Brick from the mid 1990's to hook up to it intending to run it at least or/and drive it to watch the values change out of range, then track down the issue. But if I were to go by just what I am hearing from you look/test/replace TCC Lockup Solenoid (electronically controlled) or a major ECM failure/ or bad ground, bad wires or connections somewhere or a huge vacuum problem or grounding issues or a Throttle Position Sensor sometimes these show burns on the back side and you know its bad or times needs tested to know for sure.
Basically need someone to test all sensors to find which is out of range and then check the items those sensors pull values from and then repair/replace that item.
Need to tell the shop that too, if its not been tested bad before replacing parts, do not replace it just to confirm its not the problem. A good mechanic can test to confirm, otherwise take it somewhere else.
Made it to the shop today (15ish miles away) after about 10 stops to put in park, turn off, start again and continue. Before EOD they called to let me know about the codes that went off. I forget what he said, but I'm call tomorrow to find out. We'll see...... Appreciate your help. Greatly. $118/hr. for these guys here in Ventura county.....geez... What the hell do I need to get so I can do this? Code scanner and then take to YouTube??
Oh. After reading your comment again, concerning the codes, he did mention 'throttle'
Would you provide a link for the scanner you're referring to? Thanks
They do not make but general code reader scanners and code clear units, but ebay may have one Snap-on brick, but you have to have the correct key and cartridge for that make & model, I do have those and can look it up if needed but need the scanner first and there is a learnoing curve or it looks like gibber gaber to the person thats never seen a bunch of numbers and deciples, like reading a computer page from the 70's, so you will need the manuals on how to use one too. but its the only way to truely get the info needed to test it. below is a title to one with the cartridge you need but I did not see the key or manuals I will post the url below.
Well I do see some keys (blue, looks like a key with gold tabs).
Here is another but may not have everything either, need one with all attachments & keye and manuals otherwise you will not know which attachment to use or key to use. but here it is. below MT2500
Looks like that last one just goes to 1997 or 1998, mine goes all the way to CAN AM II, 2001 but its been updated a few times to do so, that cost at the time a few thousand dollars but if these sellers on ebay do not know what they have may can snag one cheap, They are selling on ebay from a few hundred to five hundred and new without the cartridges and key and attachment just the scanner & one manual was 24-25 grand, Each cartridge was abt.$500 new so grab one if you want to learn how to use one. Read up on it and if you have the trouble shooter cartridge for your model it tells you what to test and how to test it if you have the manual too, you will need multi-meter, jumpers (whole set that you can use in varying ways), vacuum pullers & testers, guages, just to start with, may even need more testing tools.
Believe me even though the scanner is cheap now, finding one with everything you need may be an issue, then you need testing tools which can set you back a chunk ($$$) easy. Remember you need the OBD-1 to 1995 or 96 cartridge and trouble sooter cartridge and the correct key and at least the snap-on mt2500 ford manual and the proper wire harness attachment. And if the seller knows if they have it then they likely will be charging more for it too. I have about 40+ keys, you have to connect the reader to the van put in you vin number and it tells you the key to use, so unless I know your vin number. I would be guessing to tell which key to buy but I can narrow it down if you need me too,
BTW, I have the training cartridges too (I have every cartridge made, some cover a a year ans then the next year cartridge covers the last and current year so cartridges add up after 13 years) so if you can find those training cartridges too it would be a huge plus to you as you really do need them.
BTW also with the correct software updates and cartridges you can use the tester to test parts that are connected to the wire harness like sensors ect, and it will give you the proper range values and you can see if its bad or good, some test you have to let it give you values and then you watch the screen while someone drives it to see if those values go out of range on INTERMITANT issues, others you will have to use multi-meter and test tools to find those values to know if those are bad or not.
So I have a combination of these. I was supposed to get an email of the specific codes but haven't yet. From conversation over phone today, I have: throttle function, exhaust lies conditions, EGO not switching. After I got off the phone I searched this website and found these codes attached:
I feel like I can do this myself. I've always wanted to work on my own car.... What should try first? I have too drive it back from the shop tomorrow and if it's anything like on the way there, I'll have to stop and turn off/on again about 10 times. I just have to laugh, really. One things clear though; I do love my Econoline! Classic one day. Appreciate the thoughts spent.
Yea that is the scanne and I saw the Ford book, Can not tell if the correct cartridge & key or port attachment is there but if it has the ford book it might have those too. Also if you code set for throttle position issues, you can test it without the scanner, the book and scanner trouble shooter will help you figure out how to test it but it can be done without the scanner and is worth trying out in-case the throttle position sensor or its wire harness is bad. This can also be ECM problem too but need to test everything else. I fyours is the 5.0 or 5.8 Here is URl to copy & paste to a new browser window to test the TPS below.
I looked that scanner up on ebay and it looks like the primary catridge goes 1996 but the trouble shooter only goes to 1989, so it does not have the trouble shooter you need and likely does not have the key either but may. Does have the ford book 7th edition which I think goes to 1995. May can but the key and trouble shooter from another listing that just has that.
Yea I see the supplement to 1996 which will have threw 95, just info that is not in the other book, but I do think 7th edition covers 1995.
It would be nice to find one with all the keys, cartridges and books for that price.
This one looks pretty good, still may need to get but it has alot of cartridges and connectors and books Url below. its on ebay too.
There is one listed I would not buy it as it has little with it but it says have to keep button pressed to be on, They do not know how it operates some ports you plug up to some cars/trucks are not powered so the unit will go off if you do not keep the button pushed to run off the 9v battery, but if they had or used the correct plug in for that model (Other may fit) it would have a plug on the side and if you also have that jumper wire that goes with it you just plug it into it and connect it too the battery or power in the fuse box with aligator clip. So they do not have all the parts needed for it but yet that is mostly GM's. Just Thought I would point that out if you get to using it (scanner) on other makes & models.
And you have to keep the button pushed in to run off the scanner battery until you put in the vin number and get all the correct key, plug set up before you can let off button or it resets itself.
Let me point this out while it hit my mind. If you scanner does not see the ECM or says port does not have power or something like that then either the port does not have power (not powered) or it has lost power to it and you need to use adaptor with power port and run jumper to battery or restore power to the port by fixing that issue or the ECM itself is not able to communicate to the scanner and scanner may come up with this on the screen too, which means (book may not tell you this but may) the ECM is bad or ground is lost to ECM or there is a fuse on or near the ECM (in between port and ECM or into ECM) that is bad. I do not remember the book pointing this out so to a newbie they may think the scanner is bad or not know what to do next to fix port or if ECM is bad or like said above the port may be bad (prongs touching or broke off or no power to port at all which could also be a bad or cut wire to port). Need to store it without the battery in it when not in use.
These are the codes that came up
This is what they are suggesting. I feel like I should try this one on my own????
The most expensive MAF sensor at rockauto.com is $130 down to $45 so $200+ is too high. I would also clean the IAC Valve, use nylon assortments of brushes to clean with throttle body cleaner and reinstall with new gasket, one for the throttle body and one for the IAC, Hint brake loose the IAC bolts before taking the throttle body off. Since your saving money on the MAF I would go ahead and get a Throttle position sensor and replace it or test to confirm yours is good at least.
They are quoting $12.50 for the throttle body cleaner 1 can, You can get it cheaper too and go ahead and get another can of it for the IAC, may get three cans, I ilke to get mine clean.
OBD1 computers clear when disconnecting the negative battery terminal for 15 minutes. and/or pulling the ECM fuse under dash KAM for 15 or seconds usually the fuse that also light the interior light when doors open and some say to push down on the brake pedal or turn ignition on, and some while negative terminal from battery is disconnect run a small jumper wire from positive to the disconnected negative terminal while being sure the negative terminal does not come in contact with the battery post for 5-10 minutes on the newer computers with capacitors in them to drain fully or faster, turning on the key while battery disconnected or pulling that computer fuse does the same thing just faster (which some are afraid it may kill the computer). The proper procedure is in the repair manual or a repair manual but disconnecting the negative terminal 5-10 minutes will do it, not less than 5 minutes but more than 5 minutes, 5 minutes and 1 second. Thats why most say 5-10 or even 15 minutes. I just disconnect the neg cable and go wash my hands or start cleaning up the work area, may even let 30 minutes go by or if its my own and its late/dark ect. let it sit all night.
Also on the site with the TPS testing procedures also had MAF sensor test it maybe that it is good but dirty or wire connector loose or bad wire to it and you can use MAF cleaner (CRC brand) to just spray it off do not touch the filament or drop it if its just dirty.
Throttle position sensor out of range: Possible causes: Faulty throttle position sensor, Throttle position sensor harness is open or shorted, Throttle position sensor circuit poor electrical connection, Throttle position sensor not properly adjusted. There is a procedure for installing a new on that you will need to know (repair Book or internet search.)
Code172-ego not switching lean exhaust, it is running rich. Not only diluted oil but a sticking injector, clogged air filter and too much fuel pressure can cause these issues. May be because the MAF, throttle position sensor or IAC or dirty throttle body, Not listed above. I also believe a vacuum problem either too low or leaking or any reason there is a vacuum leak like intake gasket too because if the engine is sucking air then the fuel system may not switch to lean the fuel mixture as there is not enough it can add to over come the excessive air amounts allowed threw the intake gasket so it never switches to lean, and the computer is reading this and just say hey something is wrong. Brake booster hose to engine sucks air on a check valve if its cracked or hose bad this can be a source of excessive air too.
But if it is just the MAF sensor dirty or bad it is an easy fix, I kinda have my doubts its just that but it may, I would test first then replace, as it will still need the throttle body & IAC cleaned, I never just clean one or the other, always clean both and with the throttle body off clean as far into the intake as you can with out dropping anything in there you can not get back out with out removing the intake. I use nylon brushes of different size, shape, style to clean. Listen for vacuum leaks.
FYI....ECM was replaced a few months ago
Hopefully then ECM is fine.
How about this one: https://m.ebay.com/itm/192309454657
Looks ok may or may not have the key you need, but does have the hook ups I believe and catridges, may ask the seller if the trouble shooter for ford and others volume 2 covers the 1995 model, as this would be helpful if it does. But price seems fair and if not then picking up one from another listing with it may be an option.
So I replaced the MAF, EGR, oxygen sensors, & cleaned the IAC. Running much better but while changing oxygen sensors I saw this leak. Suggestions? Thanks
Leaking oil from the rear crank seal or around the oil pan or both? It has some age on it, if its loosing so much oil that it is costing too much to drive it then may need to be fixed, if adding oil daily or it may not be worth fixing if a little seep of oil here and there, unless its just a oil pan & valve cover gaskets, if its a quart a month its not so bad, I would not worry about unless its easy gasket or seals you can replace yourself. With may not be a bad Idea to replace those, it may help out out some, If its the rear engine crank seal, its alot of work to replace, but if you have the time and place to do it, not too bad to do, if that was the front engine leaking may be timing chain cover or front crank or cam seal, timing chain cover takes a bit to do , but the cam seal is easy enough to do, crank seal it is about like doing the timing chain time wise. Lubegard oil treatment is good for some oil seals, it may help a bit too.
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