07 GMC YUKON DENALI
I'm looking at a 07 GMC Yukon Denali with 151000 miles for
$15,000................Questions is what are people experience with high mileage
Suspension, electrical, rust, brakes, engine knocking, alternator, idler pulleys, fuel pump, and now today the computer died.
08 Denali - Suspension, electrical, rust, brakes, engine knocking, alternator, idler pulleys, fuel pump, evap solenoid, and now today the computer died. Hardly professional grade in my opinion. The fuel pump sits on top of the gas tank in a pool of salty water and guess what happens. Body control module is located above the spare tire and gets blasted with salt and mud. Stupid location. Same for the evaporative emissions solenoid located right next to it. And try to take the spare tire off. The secondary latch mechanism will rust shut and not allow the tire to be lowered. Only way is to jam a screwdriver into the mechanism and get it to release. Took me 2 hours. Best fix is to just cut the cable and then put on a whole new hoist. So to sum up my experience I would stay away from an old Yukon unless it had been very well cared for. Most of my troubles have been related to salty roads and bad maintenance.
clarification - the BCM is not above the spare tire. Its some other rusted metal box with a big connector attached that sits above the spare.
that rusted metal box is the Fuel Vent Solenoid... these fail eventually leading to a P0449 code and CEL. Replaced mine yesterday and now the BCM 10A fuse wont hold... the symptoms: "Hood Open" light, "Service Four Wheel Drive" light, "Service Stabilitrak" light, no buttons/functions on steering wheel or column are working, and brake lights stay on all the time. The main trouble with them (in addition to the myriad electrical shortcomings) is the addition of "Active Fuel Management" or Displacement-on-demand that slowly destroys the otherwise great motor that is the 5.3l
It's the electronic suspension control module and was part of my latest trouble. I cleaned the connector and then cleaned about 6 ground wires that attach to the frame, firewall, engine, alternator housing, and eventually back to the battery. All my electrical problems then went away and it once again runs perfectly. There are two ground connections on the driver side attached to the body mounts that were especially bad and not making good contact. I also added an extra ground from the firewall to the engine because there isn't enough room to remove the old ground strap from the back of the engine.
Have you had any resolution to your problems? I have an 08 that’s been on and off with electrical issues for the past 4 months (see my post)