My 77 Ford F-250 starts and stops
I have a inline 6 1 barrel carburetor and I can start it
up it'll run for a second or two and stop if I keep my
foot on the gas pedal it will run I've checked for
vacuum leaks and checked my fuel pump it all
looks good I don't know what could be causing the
problem any ideas
Change the fuel filter but i may be time for a carburetor rebuild.
Most likely has something in the idle passages inside the carb, if the fuel lines have never been replaced with the multi-fuel hose then chances are high that is it a small piece of hose fragment or even a piece of the accelerator pump, you will have to remove and disassemble the carb then tank it in some chemtool, blow out all the passages then install a rebuild kit that has all the goodies for this garbage they try to tell us is fuel today, then replace all the rubber hoses with the new stuff, you might even want to think about the mechanical fuel pump too if it hasn't been replaced with the newer ones, then reset the carb and you should be good to go.
Does it smoke or have low compression? I am sure you thought about checking the wire harness wires near the engine & ICM, I have seen these get brittle & dry rot.
I've put a new carburetor did some adjustments changed the fuel filter checked wires haven't seen any smoke every time I tried to start it
Was it new carb or a rebuilt one? It still sounds like something is blocked inside the carb, this happens a lot with mexico rebuilds.
It's a new carburetor got the thing from eBay though
Yeah, the last carb I bought from e bay was supposed to be new but it wasn't had to overhaul it myself to get it to run right on my old ford truck. Then after I got bit on an alternator I said that's enough found a local supplier for most of my stuff and he usually either meets or even beats e bay prices and there is a warranty.
Thanks for the help!!!
Thanks for the points, hope you find the little bugger thats got it plugged.
Ultrasonic parts cleaner & Brulin Formula 815GD solution, works everytime.
I'll give that parts cleaner and Burlin Formula a try
Hey, let me go back to the name again, I looked at the containers and its Brulin Formula 815QR or the GD. Both are Safe for Aluminum and other metals too, the QR is the heavy duty one and GD is the normal use for rebuilds and works great too but if you need more powerful, then the QR is better and also both can be use without a ultrasonic cleaner in an immersion tank. I buy the 5 gallon jug but you do not need that much and one gallon at full strength is 3 gallons of solution or up to 19 gallons for the weakest solution which works surprisingly well. Only thing you may need to do while cleaning is use a air nozzle and air compressor to blow out the internal passage ways and then run the ultrasonic cleaning again. I will let it soak for a little while before turning the cleaner unit on for about 30 minutes then run the cleaner until carb passage ways are clear. You have to mix the solution yourself likely, mix it at the first or weak solution as the ultrasonic cleaner is doing most the work. My ultrasonic cleaner is 12 gallon. With this solution parts come out looking brand new and I mean brand new, I also us it to clean clogs out of ATV & ATC & Motorcycle & Lawn mower Carbs and those passageways are much smaller and does very well with them. Ultrasonic is the way to go or a BioCleaner unit may be a cheaper alternative to buying a large ultrasonic cleaner but the bio has to have the organisms as I call them added so often that it cost more in the long run but does clean well and the Brulin can be use over and over and just add more as the fluid level goes down. I have left mine in only straining the fluid and wiping the unit out and adding new fluid to top off the level for 3-4 years without doing a full fluid change and only then was because I wanted to move it and its too heavy to move full.
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