throttle body dumping lots of fuel.

i have a 91 2.8 tbi that was doing that. I replaced the hall effect switch and pick up coil along with the tps sensor. all parts ran me round 40$ im not sure wich one fixed it but it got fixed!

the distributer has a lead to the ecm to tell the fuel injector when to open and close. the hall effect switch detects a load on the distributer i.e. acceloration. and adust the spark and fuel accordingly, normally if the service engine light doesnt read a code 21 and the spring in the tps is springing back into pos. then the tps is good.

Thanx. Rebuilt presre. reg on throt. bdy & replaced plugs,wrs.cap,rotor,ect. then it started poppin' & pingin'. cometo find out coil was bad too. But I bought the truck for $400.00 & put about $65.00 into it, with oil change,& $25.00 worth of gas.Runs & drives like a champ now. Thanx again for your input.

I'm having the same fuel dumping problem in my 88 s-10 4.3 can't find hall effect location. ..hhelp

I have a 89 gmc with the 2.5l 4 cylinder and its dumping too much fuel after I put a new injector in it, it's like the injector is stuck open. what's causing it?

I got question on 89 s-10 double throttle body and get no fluid to injectors at all what wrong

I have a 91 s-10 2.8 my fuel pump went out my head lights stop working and my cluch sencer went out at the same time any ideas

I realise this is an older thread. For anyone to read this far, I want to at least provide my limited knowledge in the hopes it'd help you. My truck issue is at the time of this post hopefully being repaired. Its as expected, a fuel pump issue wherein the part is so old, that it wont hold the electricity its being given. I can only give you an area to start for electrical issues. I would say if you've just installed anything like an injector, make sure you installed it right. The ecm needs time to adjust for certain parts tho I do not claim to know all of which they are, just giving an example since those parts may require a battery unplug and hold brakes deal to bleed remaining electrical charge and reset ecm. Just an example of how some parts need proper installation and there are likely some parts that require things as parculiar, not with the electricity, but with how they are meant to physically actuate. First off, check your fuse box fuses inside the vehicle, its usually near the steering column. My 01 s10 is needs the door open for this since its on the side. Headlights and fuel pumps typically also have a relay switch under the hood that shouldn't ever really "blow" for lack of a better word. Battery unhook and holding brake for residual electric bleed should reset the switches and you can also takem out and put them back in to reset. They reset when no electricity present, just checkem to weed out possible issues. Fusebox under hood is usually driverside area. Looks just like a black box literally. After covering those bases, I'd recomend going to do some reseach and double checking with whoever available of greater knowledge on these subjects. There are relays elsewhere for example, and vary with each vehicle.

Missing the lower o ring on the injector, dumps fuel as soon as you cycle the key to the on position.