2006 Toyota Corolla Manual Cranks but won't turn on.
Replaced my coolant temperature sensor and went to turn on my car. Will
crank continuously and will not run. I believe I can hear the fuel pump kick
on. I did move my car a small distance after turning on to reorient it. I have
attempted to turn the key while depressing the accelerator. I also tried
twice to start the car before doing this, so it may be overly flooded. Security
system disarms when key is put in. While replacing the sensor I also had to
remove the engine cover, the bolts of which were heavily rusted. I used
about half a can of rust remover top get them off, and am wondering if the
rest penetrating spray might have gotten onto the ignition coils or spark
plugs. If this is the case, would simply cleaning and drying them possibly
Was the temperature sensor plugged back in? May want to check for a broke wire at the plugin. I don't thing the over spay from what ever you sprayed on would cause this.
Yes. I put a new Duralast CTS in and tightened with a 19mm deep socket and reattached the harness. I will check to make sure it is properly threaded and tightened and check the plugin wire and test the harness with a multimeter. Can an improperly installed CTS cause ignition failure?
Improperly installed...how? But anyway, I'm thinking a broken wire around the plugin. Possible you wouldn't even see it, wires break under the insulation. With the key off, I would check for continuity from the connector back into the wire, moving things around checking for an interruption of the connection. The CTS is like the main component the computer relies on in order to adjust all other sensors when the engine is at its different temperatures to operating temp. So, I have never tried starting an engine without the CTS hooked up so I really don't know. I know from like 1978 on back you could, all it did was read temperature. Now it does so much more.
I was able to get a reading with the multimeter at 20k ohm and the key in the on position. With the key in the off position I was unable to get a steady reading for the continuity test. Moving the wire around I would get an occasional reading. Tested the old CTS and confirmed that it was non-functioning as well. A question to be sure, but my multimeter does have a continuity testing setting by a diode testing setting is this the same thing?
No, you want the ohms Ω reading function for continuity.
Multimeter broke on my way to do the test. After replacing, I tried the continuity test and wasnt able to get any confirmation of continuity. Moved the wire around, tried the probes in both orientations, only a 1 reading. The harness and cable were very stiff and difficult to remove. Perhaps I damaged it changing out the CTS. Is this a repair that would be reasonable for a low technical knowledge person to attempt? Thank you.
Are you checking continuity from the plugin back into the wire separately on each side of the CTS plugin?
Checking with one probe on each terminal.
Nope need to check each wire, from were the wire ends in the plugin back into the same wire. You'll have to cut away the insulation, just enough to expose the wire. Do not cut into the wire itself. A good razor blade works nice. Just one side on the wire.
What is the ohms reading across the Coolant Temperature Sensor?
At 20k ohm setting I'm getting a reading of about 2 across the terminals of the CTS I removed. To be clear, i'll have to remove the sleeve from around the wires, and then shave down the insulation on the wire until the copper is exposed? Do I need to do this for both or just one wire?
Both wires, and there is a slice in the sleeve so you can just pull back so the wires are exposed.
The continuity readings came back good.
That sorta sucks. Reading was 0.000?
No. Jumped around. Usually single digits on the right terminal and in the teens on the left.
Any chance I just need to clean the contacts?
Well that is a good thing in finding the problem. The readings should be at ZERO, sounds like broken wires. Clean the contacts? NO, replace the connector. You would splice it into the existing wire and solder the connections. I can see if I can find a connector if you want, or check at your local parts store for one.
Alright, so a proper continuity reading at the 200 ohm setting is going to give all zeros when connecting one terminal to it's corresponding wire. Replacing the connector is above my technical skill so I'll have to take it in. Would I be able to push start my car to get it to a garage, or would you recommend just getting it towed?
Doubt it will start, probably need a tow.
OK. Thank you very much for your help, Rowefast.
Your welcome. Let me know the out-come of this. I always like to know.
I'm trying to find a replacement harness in a salvage yard. Am I correct in thinking that any Corolla between 2003-2007 should have the same connector? Thanks again for your expertise.
Probably, You know what it looks like.
Looking for a Used Corolla in your area?
CarGurus has 3,444 nationwide Corolla listings starting at $1,949.
Search Toyota Corolla Questions
Toyota Corolla Experts
Related Models For Sale
Used Cars For Sale