2003 Mazda PR5 problem starting
I have a 2003 Mazda PR5 that intermittently will not start. Changed battery, battery
cables, and starter, but we're still having the occasional problem of no start. The
car usually starts by the time the tow truck arrives! What do I do?
Do you have any light on currently? CEL/MIL/ABS/EMERG? There is a whole list of what it could be, the fact that it happens intermittently is an odd one but here are 2 options for you, that I feel confident it could be with my history of automotive, and our silly/amazing cars....My first answer is going to be check Cam position sensor, and the Crank Sensor. These sensors can give you an intermittent problem starting your vehicle. Although 90% of the time when they go bad they will send a signal to ECU to trip CEL/MIL. My other idea is that possibly a clutch sensor, or possibly Reverse/Neutral switch in the transmission. Check these out, as there not the hardest to do at home, or with little to no effort. Let me know what you find out, or if you need anymore help. I'm a Toyota Technician, but love my Mazda's
Thundercrack, Did you ever find out the problem? My 03' P5 does the same thing, and before I replace the starter, I thought I'd do some searching. Thanks, email@example.com
having same problem, but mine doesn't start at all. check the starter relay, positive, battery cable, or there may be a bad cell in your battery. what i need to know is where the starter relay is located...
We are having the same problem of the car not starting about 20% of the time, but when the car won't start in PARK we can put it in NEUTRAL and that will always work. I heard about this problem on car talk, in another type of car, but can't remember what they said the fix was. My mechanic couldn't reproduce the problem, so they said they couldn't fix it. Car talk said something about a switch that needed to be fixed, and eventually it would stop working in NEUTRAL... anyone else have an idea about this?
Hi, I just bought a 2003 mazda P5 and besides the EXTENSIVEE list of engine problems this car has, and if you dont have them yet, just wait, you will, or maybe your suspension problems will force you to sell the car first. It could be the transmission. Mine often sticks in some mystery position between park and reverse, even though from just looking at it you could never tell it wasnt in park. Anyway, this happens and the car won't start so i put the keys in so the power is on, foot on brake and switch all the way down to drive, and then hard back into park and then remove the keys, and when i try to turn it on after that it always works. Something to try, my suggestion is to lose the car, this is likely to be your first problem of many.
You guys might wan't to check your Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF). My PR5 was having that problem until i replaced it. It's either that or the alternator is going bad.
i had the same problem with mine and it was in the shifter linkage.if i put in neutral it would start
I have the same issue, but now a mechanic is having problems fighuring it out, he stated its the cable (accelerator cable) but the vehicle had no problems with that, it would jus have to be pushed hard into the corner then into park to light up and sure enough it would start ? id like to know what the fix is
I started having this problem in 12/2018. I have a 2003 Mazda Protege 5 hatch that has been solid. My mechanic checked and the alternator is good and the battery is new, but it turns on when it wants. Really frustrating since the car is sill in good looking shape and mechanically sound.
I HAVE 2003 MAZDA PROTEGE WITH INTERMITTENT STARTING .WOULD TURN KEY AND HERE A CLICK BEHIND GLOVE BOX .AFTER TRYING KEY 3-20 TIMES IT WOULD START .BUT THEN IT GOT SO BAD IT WOULD NOT START AT ALL BUT I WOULD ALWAYS HERE THE CLICK NOISE. THE PROBLEM WAS SOLVED WHEN I PUT IN A NEW IGNITION SWITCH .NOT THE KEY SOCKET BUT THE SWITCH INSIDE STEERING COLUMN ON THE LEFT SIDE .CAR STARTS EVERY TIME NOW. AFTER TRYING TO SOLVE THIS FOR TWO YEARS, THE CAR IS GOOD . REMOVE AND REPLACE IGNITION SWITCH IS ON YOUTUBE. THE PART COST ABOUT $35.