2012 Mazda 3 wont start unless jumped?
I own a 2012 Mazda 3. The vehicle has been
amazing till just the other day.. I went to start the
car and got a no crank. The headlights work, all
dash are operating as usual. . . I uses cables to
jump the battery and went to have the car tested
right away. The auto center advised that the
battery has about 485 cold cranks left out of 500
but was about a 4 year old battery and I should
replace it. They also tested the altinater and said it
gave a good reading....just for sanity I asked them
to remove the negative line to the battery terminal
to see if the car stayed running, and it did. I know
it's not the starter either because a jump wouldn't
fix that issue. My question is WHAT THE HECK IS
WRONG THEN? I can't be the first person in history
of Mazda to have this issue. It seems like
something stupid, but what? Please help me
figure out this issue. . . Someone had this problem
before I know it's not just me.
Mazda has a fuse on the terminal to the battery that regulates voltage output.
Sounds like you need a new battery. And never pull a battery cable off while the engine is running on these newer vehicles.
Also make sure the battery connections are clean and tight at the battery. It is possible that that is where the problem is.
Do you know anything about the fuse that is on the battery terminal? It's yellow but looks burnt. . .it looks like it goes to the positive side... what is this and can it be the problem? The auto center replaced the battery again tonight with a new one. Checked the terminal and they are tight as well as the belts ....all looks good... but out of nowhere the car just no cranks... jump it.. all problems go away. I don't know if this is just my imagination, but it all began when my fiancé and I took a road trip to Lake George, NY... see,...we're from Queens and it's about a 270 mile trip one way ...540 rt.. I noticed that too me the car didn't seem like it had the hp it use too, but in thought it was just me. I had a issue with a vehicle I uses at work that the coil pack went bad... I know I sound ignorant but I know very little about M3's hence why I'm here... Can a spark plug issue cause this... someone had this problem befor me I'm sure...
For the hell of it... I just went outside to try it... Started right up...? But do I drive to work and risk getting stuck there with nobody to jump me...should I order a new terminal fuse? Everyone at tge dealer just says ,... oh just bring it in ..no one is honest there ... they won't tell.me it hey ever heard of this issue. $60 just to have them look..just bought a new battery and got an oil change. .. $260.00. WTH?... The auto center said the car ONLY calls for synthetic ... PS first oil change. ...just bought the car in May/ 16
Sounds to me like there is a problem at that fuse you are talking about. I would address that. Without being there a intermittent problem like this is hard to put a finger on. So when it does not turn over, is it just dead? Dragging starter noise or click? Jumping the vehicle seems to give it the extra boost to get it going, which is telling me something is causing resistance, like possibly that fuse, I'm thinking you may have to have the starter checked also. But in actuality the starter should be fine, I'm leaning more toward the starter relay or a worn (chaffed) cable, or bad cable connection. One other thing to check when this happens is the ignition switch, by using a digital multi-meter to see if power is getting to the starter.
Here are the following diagnostic steps that were taken so far: * battery was checked comma it seemed to be ok... but, I replaced it with a new one anyway. * battery terminal wires are quite secure. * the alternator was checked and seems to be fine. * belts to alternator are tight. * relay fuse for starter is good. "Square black fuse" * the only thing I can see visually is there is a yellow fuse on the actual positive terminal line going to the battery that looks burnt. I don't know what it is called or how to find a new one, but it's the rectangle fuse that you see when you open the hood and look at the battery. I need to try and replace this and see if it's the stupid easy simple little problem that was overlooked.
I am having a similar experience as you had... I went to start my car and it wouldn't turn over... all lights turned on but wouldn't turn over... tried a hour later started up with out having to boost it.. took it right to the shop they tested the battery and said it's fine a bit on the weak side as it a 2012 I could replace it if i wanted to.. and i did as winter was about to start didnt want to deal with this in snow... 4 months later i went to start my car and it wouldn't turn over... I boosted it the next morning and it was fine after that... fast forward it 2 more months and I started the car the other day and I could smell something burning... opened the hood notice of the positive post one of the connecting wires was smoking... took it to the shop... they tested everything all connections are on and everything tested perfect how ever 5mins later they notice the smoke and hand to find what the cause of it... looks like the fuse on the battery needs to be replaced and the wires had to be cut and reattached.. I have the option to replaces the cable wires...
I'm having the same exact issue. I have a 2010 Mazda 3S grand touring. It has just over 50,000 miles on it and has been a great car so far. Went to start it the other day the battery was dead. Took the battery to AutoZone they tested it said the battery was dead but no dead cells. They charged it I brought it back home put it back in my car car started up fine. Drove it around the block to test it battery light came on after 5 to 10 minutes ABS light came on the Bose sound system flashed on and off Power steering light came on the car acted as if it were going to stall. It did not stall I made it back home turned it off tried to restart and it would not start. I had it towed into the Mazda dealership. After having it for eight hours they called me and told me simple fix it needs a new battery! I explain to them what I had done they said nope it's a bad battery we put a new one in. Please pay the cashier $183… Three days later I went to drive my car again same exact thing happened… Called the dealership told them it's obviously not the battery because now they're $183 battery is dead in my vehicle there is something draining the battery. They told me on their last testing that the alternator was good… So we'll see what they say now
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