why is my heater not working after putting in heater resister and heater blower motor ?

110

Asked by Jan 20, 2018 at 06:17 PM about the 1967 Pontiac Tempest

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

9 Answers

78,015

Fan switch or blower motor could be bad. Do you have air conditioning or automatic climate control? Or just the heater? HTH. -Jim

1,170

Do you mean the blower motor not running ?? Are you getting power at the resistor ?? Is the motor getting a good ground ?? It might also be the 3 speed electrical switch for the resistor

110

Thank you all for responding back to me. Answer to question 1. Yes the water hoses is getting hot. Far as temperature, I don’t know because I don’t have my oil pressure Water Volt triple 3 gauge set up yet. Answer to question 2. I just put in a new resistor and new blower motor. Yes it heat only. I test it with my multimeter and I go a Ohm sounds when I tested heater resistor. Answer to question 3. Yes, the blower is not running at all. Thank you for all your advice. T67

1 people found this helpful.
110

Thank you all for responding back to me. Answer to question 1. Yes the water hoses is getting hot. Far as temperature, I don’t know because I don’t have my oil pressure Water Volt triple 3 gauge set up yet. Answer to question 2. I just put in a new resistor and new blower motor. Yes it heat only. I test it with my multimeter and I go a Ohm sounds when I tested heater resistor. Answer to question 3. Yes, the blower is not running at all. Thank you for all your advice. T67

1 people found this helpful.
110

Hello, Someone also mention to me to change my turn signal. Because my breaks light don’t work when I hit the brakes and hazards work in the front of the car instead of both area. It could be shorten , or an bad ground somewhere. Thank you very much.

1 people found this helpful.
5,955

Keep going, you'll find the problem but it sounds like you need to go back to basics. It's great you are saving a 66 from the scrap yard. I had a green, 3 speed, 326 Custom as my first car. For your heat, double check the fuse for the blower, the dash switch, and the resistor if you are not getting power to the motor. You can also check the motor by directly connecting it to a 12V source like a spare battery. If it does not run, it is the problem. If it does, then check if the switch works by setting your meter to ohms and its leads to the input side of the switch and. sequentially, to the output terminals as you move the switch through its positions. If that checks good, then measure the resistors. None should read 0 on your meter and should be successively higher resistance. As for your brake lights, there is a switch that is mounted to your brake pedal linkage under the dash. It may not be adjusted so it activates when the brake pedal is depressed or it may be bad. If the switch is working, then make sure your bulbs are good. Look out for corrosion in the lamp sockets as well. I believe the bulbs have 2 filaments - one is the brake and one is the tail light. Hazards are the same bulb and the turn signals and hazard flasher run off of a relay under your dash. Common failure and easy to replace. Good luck bringing that 66 back to life!

2 people found this helpful.
5,955

Sorry, I thought you had a 66 but I see now it is a 67. Both cars are the same except for trim items so troubleshooting will also be the same.

2 people found this helpful.
78,015

This is actually a pretty simple circuit. Unplug the connection at the blower motor, assuming you can get to it. On some GMs of that period the right front inner fender must be removed to access the blower motor. Anyhow, turn the ignition on and set the heater on high. Using a 12 volt DC test light check for power at the motor plug. If your test light comes on and the blower motor is new, scrape off some of the black paint from the blower motor where it contacts the heater box. Around one or two of the screw holes is good. The motor is grounded through the (metal) heater box. On a side note your new blower motor should not have a hole for a cooling tube. If it does it's the wrong one and should not be used. It will draw too much current through the circuit. Possibly blowing the fuse. Since you don't have air conditioning there's only 1 fuse in the fuse box for the blower. If you did have air conditioning there'd be a second 30 AMP fuse inline coming from and at the alternator. If you do not have power to the blower motor unplug the resistor block. You should have power at one of the terminals with the fan switch on any position except high. On high speed the resistor block is bypassed. If you don't have power at the resistor block check the plugs at the control panel. With the system on you should have power at one of the fan switch terminals and at one of the control panel terminals. If not, check for power at the fuse. I believe I have a wiring diagram for your heater system. If you need it let me know here and I'll dig it out and post it. HTH. -Jim

110

First of all I would like to say thank you very much to each of you who had responds with their expertise on my issue. Yesterday after work, I went out to the garage to do some more testing on the blower motor and resister. First thing. I used my test light to check the fuse to make sure that was working. When I tests it. The test lighter lighted up. That mean the fuse is good? Correct me if I am wrong. Secondly, I turn the key on without starting up the car and cut the heat on high. I went to the front of the car and taken off the wire harness to the resistor to check if any juice was coming through it with the test lighter and it “didn’t” light up. I took off the relay wire harness near the fire wall and tested that end with the test light and it lighted up on that end. Is that telling me that I need a new heater wire harness? I thank you guys for all the advice you’re giving me. T67

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