Eldorado stalls out
My 1996 Eldorado will intermittently die at stop sign or light after it is warmed up. It does not 'choke' or 'chug'; it's immediate, seems electrical, like the ignition is switched off. Diagnostic's only say engine is about to kill.
Happened often on my 98 Riviera as well. Same production line of Eldorado. Try replacing the camshaft positioning sensor.....or the crankshaft position sensor may fail causing the engine to intermittently stall. I replaced both and have no problems
Replaced both sensors. Did not solve my problem. Running out of ideas....
I feel your frustration....let me look thru my past service notes and get back to you tonight. I remember driving down the freeway after the car was warmed up.....and upon deceleration (foot off pedal) my car would die....I could see the tach needle start diving to zero....sometimes I could keep revs up and keep from gassing out.....other times it would die. so I quickly placed in neutral....keep car rolling....and did a restart.....more info later
ok.....one very 'light bulb' moment while looking at my notes. Maybe a simple battery cable failure - an intermedent open in one of the cables. Clean the cable attachments. Retighten them down securely. See if you can get to the ground cable where it grounds to the motor (usually) and see that this ground is clean and tight. Look closely at the cable ends at the battery. Acid could have gotten down inside the cables, under the insulation, and literally eaten the cables apart.
How many miles on car? Do you have all the service records? What part of USA do you live in? Can you describe in more detail the problem? u can call me to discuss, if desired. This is most interesting challenge and I believe I went thru all of them w my Riv that has 220,000 miles and running strong today. 818-635-2703
168,460mi; Have had the car since 18,000mi; I'm in Minnesota. The problems only occurs when properly warmed up, if the stop is short enough, it may not manifest itself sometimes. It kills only at full stop in gear at stop light/sign/stop and go traffic. No missing or choking, just dead kill. Starts right back up. Runs great on open road. Replaced battery last year, all contacts are good. Problem started last fall. I stored the car over the winter. It idles just fine in neutral or park (650rpm).
Here is a solution I found ....EGR valve....has been known to cause stalling. The EGR replacement on a 1996 Cadillac with the 4.6L is very easy. The reasons that you might have to replace the EGR valve is because you may have stalling at deacceleration, rough idle, or rough running at low throttle. Instead of replacing the EGR valve, you might be able to clean it if it is sticking. The following steps are what I used to replace the EGR valve: 1.Disconnect the negative battery terminal 2.Discharge the pressure from the fuel line. 3.There is a nut that holds the fuel rail to one of the bolts of the EGR valve. You need to remove this nut. 4.Use a fuel line removal tool and disconnect the 2 fuel lines from the fuel rail. 5.Remove the 4 long bolts that are used to hold down the fuel rail and is also used for holding the engine cover in place. 6.Gently pop the fuel rail up so that you can remove the clamp from the bolt that holds the fuel rail to the EGR valve bolt. This is where you removed the nut from the EGR valve. 7.You will need to use a 10mm deep well socket to remove the two bolts from the EGR valve. Be sure to remember which bolt goes where. 8.Pull the EGR valve off of the engine. 9.There is a screw like plunger on the bottom of the EGR valve. See if this is sticking. If so, you can try to use carburetor cleaner to try to clean the carbon out . 10.To put the EGR valve back on, just do the reverse. You may need to replace the gasket if it tore during removal. This is a relatively easy replacement and if you have to buy another EGR valve, you will be looking at around $200($42 on ebay) for the part. So, if you can do this yourself, you are going to save yourself about $100 in labor.
Now that you mentioned the Fall season......an idea came to mind.....prior to winter I had similar stalling at a stop sign. I cleaned the intake manifold....using some carb cleaner and a wipe up rag. You will need to take a hose off to get to the front of the intake manifold....mine had a small screen as well. I used an entire can of that carb cleaner (AutoZone) and what a miracle ...it ran well after that. Don't know if u have cleaned since 18,000 but it will sure help performance. That reminds me I need to do mine as well. Hope this helps
Well, after exhausting all other options, a pretty sharp mechanic came up with the solution. Turns out that, with time, the spark plug wires GAIN resistance. Normal impedance is 200ohms per inch. Mine were reading well over 400ohms per inch, thus skewing all voltage and current prompts the 'brain' is monitoring. New plug wires and plugs and it is running like a Swiss watch. FYI, this is the second time in my ownership I replaced plug wires. I have personally put over 150,000 miles on this car.
Replaced coil, plugs, computers,fuel filters, etc., etc., basically everything I could do myself. Nothing helped. Then a light came on in my brain...it was the FUEL PUMP!!! Replaced the pump and have not had one problem since. Hope this helps.
Thanks. Mine was plug wires. With age they more than doubled the resistance. That change threw off all other readings the computer (voltage, amps) causing the car to kill. Running fine now.
Fuel pump has different symptoms. Is it taking longer to engage your engine? Turning the starter over and over will just wear it out. You can test by turning your key 3/4 on....and pausing 10-15 seconds. This normally sends fuel to the injectors without constantly wearing out your starter The car is then telling you u are getting close to needing a fuel pump. Cars are very vocal....they talk to the driver//owner....many do not hear....or their radio is on too loud to notice
John, that was a good find on the spark plug wires. I usually have that happen within the first 5 years....after the original stuff wears out. Then I buy the best 'wires' and eliminates the problem for last 12 years. I had your same symptoms last weekend. Driving down the expressway. I stopped for gas. As I drove away car died. Restarted it and drove 10-30 feet and car died. Did this 5 times until I re-parked at gas station. I towed my car home. I sat back, poured myself a drink and thought about everything my Riviera was telling me. The light bulb went on....I took the manifold assembly (easy off) from the air filter, and used carb cleaner to clean the throttle assembly....both sides of the butterfly. So much black gunk kept pouring out..... and also sprayed the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor with cleaner as well. Put all things back together, and started the car Has been running great since. Added a bottle of Techron as well to the gas tank Good to go.....and on a 220,000 mile car....is fantastic
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